I chronicle my two favorite pursuits in life, figure skating (as a woman who returned to it in her 40s!) and travel. My travel posts are from various locales around the globe, including Croatia, a country where I have family.
Happy Groundhog Day!
Happy Groundhog Day from the resident groundhog in my parents’ backyard! The cute little animal makes an appearance every few weeks or so. When it does, my Mom sends a welcome flurry of fun photos. She took these last fall. No word yet as to if the groundhog appeared today, much less saw its shadow!
The groundhog picked a beautiful fall day to emerge from its burrow.
Groundhog Day is a North American tradition observed annually on February 2. It is based on the superstition – brought by a group of German immigrants whose descendants are known as the Pennsylvania Dutch – that if the groundhog emerges from its burrow on that day and sees its shadow, winter will endure for another six weeks. And if the shadow is absent, an early spring is heralded.
One of the most beloved Groundhog Day celebrations takes place in Pennsylvania, USA where groundhog Punxsutawney Phil emerges (or rather is extracted!) from his burrow to provide a much anticipated weather forecast before a throng of onlookers and media. And how accurate have Phil’s forecasts been? Data collected by the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) indicates that over a ten-year period from 2016 to 2025, Phil was right just 30% of the time. Regardless of whether the superstition is true, the groundhog is a welcome friend whenever it appears!
Groundhogs are also known as woodchucks and belong to the Sciuridae family of rodents. Included in the Sciuridae family are prairie dogs, squirrels, and marmots, among others.
What a cute little tail!
This little one knows how to pose!
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23 thoughts on “Happy Groundhog Day!”
OMG!!! How super cute!! You are lucky to have him visiting you (or your mom):-)
Thanks, Jo! It is indeed a beautiful creature. And it’s sad because some people call the exterminator when groundhogs show up in their yard. Thankfully, my parents have not! It’s so fun to watch for it to appear.
That groundhog is very adorable! Love how it’s lounging on the bench. I couldn’t help but laugh at how Phil was right only 30% of the time and yet they keep going with these forecasts. I guess all you have to do is expect the opposite of what the groundhog predicts!
Groundhogs are such endearing creatures. You gotta love their plump, “rooly-poly” appearance. Are you watching and enjoying the Winter Olympics? I just watched French duo Laurence Fournier Beaudry and Guillaume Cizeron defeat three-time reigning world champions Madison Chock and Evan Bates to win Olympic gold. I was very much in awe watching all the aerial acrobatics, speed and how skaters maintain perfect balance while performing. Thanks for sharing, and have a good day 🙂 Aiva xx
Thank you, Aiva! Yes, I enjoyed watching the Winter Olympics and the figure skating events in particular. While some of the outcomes were unpredictable, all of the performances were breathtaking and the finishes well earned. It takes a special kind of courage to compete at that level, for sure. That is what makes the Olympics unique. Here’s to the next four years⛸️
I am glad to hear that you enjoyed watching the Winter Olympics. I loved it too because it is quite amazing to watch sports that rarely get mainstream coverage, such as biathlon, bobsled, skeleton, and curling. It also offers a unique aesthetic—snow-covered mountains, icy tracks, and breathtaking drone footage—that often feels more visually immersive than summer events. Take care xx
Agreed! 🙂⛸️❄️ Have a great week!
Oh my, it looks like a fat cat from the distance. What a cute animal
I prepared this post in response to the Life of B’s November Shadows square photo challenge. Her guidance states: “I am… mostly focusing on dark shapes, silhouettes and reflective shadows. The dictionaries highlight that shadows can also be an illusory image, a remnant of a thing, an imitation, an inseparable companion and of course partial light.”
The subject of my shadowy photos is the picturesque town of Makarska, Croatia, a particularly photogenic locale due to the convergence of the sea and mountains. Makarska is the namesake town of Croatia’s Makarska Riviera, a string of seventeen tiny towns situated along the Adriatic Sea in Croatia’s coastal Dalmatia region. Makarska lies in the “shadow” of the massive Mount Biokovo, which rises up dramatically from sea level to an altitude of 5,781 feet (1,762 meters). My husband was born and raised in Makarska and it has been one of my life’s distinct privileges to know such a uniquely beautiful and special place, for it to weave into the fabric of my life.
I’ve included the below image to help orient the reader (and bonus, it is squared and contains evening shadows!). The town of Makarska creeps up Mount Biokovo. Makarska’s waterfront is separated by the anvil-shaped St. Peter’s Peninsula, with the harbor on the peninsula’s left and the beach on the right.
The town of Makarska as viewed from the Panorama restaurant on Mount Biokovo.
Because Makarska creeps up the mountainside, most residents have stunning views of the sea, the mountain, or both. The home where my husband grew up is no exception. Luckily, his sister and her family live there today, so we continue to enjoy its breathtaking view of the Adriatic Sea. I asked my husband if he was able to appreciate the view when he was growing up. He replied “Not really,” that “it was always there, and it was always the same!” That of course has changed for him as an adult after living in land-locked cities in another country for the past 35 years!
Preparing to enjoy a snack on the balcony of our family home in the longer shadows of late afternoon. St. Peter’s Peninsula, the Adriatic Sea, and the islands of Brač (right) and Hvar (left) are in the distance.
And who says the view is always the same… the colors and shadows throughout the day are ever-changing!
Balcony view at sunset. I love how the colors of the sky are reflected on the sea’s surface.
Throughout the years, the beach has been a favored spot for photos at any time of the day. One of my all time favorites is my husband standup paddle boarding in the waters of Marušići Beach, just up the coast from Makarska.
My husband’s shadowy silhouette as he approaches the shore at the end of a long beach day. I’m impressed by his confidence. When I get that close to shore, I drop to my knees for greater control… too many large rocks hiding beneath the water’s surface! And a cultural side note… a water polo net is in the background on the right. Croatia is a water polo powerhouse. The Croatian men’s water polo team won a silver medal in the Paris 2024 Summer Olympics.
And another favorite is of us taking in the sunset at Makarska Beach from under the pine trees.
Watching the sunset at Makarska Beach. This image was captured by my mother-in-law.
Our daytime wanderings about town have yielded some memorable shadowy images as well. We typically begin the day with a coffee (or two!) in a café.
Trees cast shadows on guests at Café Biokovo, a favorite spot for locals and guests alike on Markarska Harbor.
A walk around shady St. Peter’s Peninsula is often a part of our daytime routine.
Pine trees cast shadows on the path around St. Peter’s Peninsula.
The Adriatic Sea from the tip of St. Peter’s Peninsula on a cloudier day.
We typically take a break during the afternoon siesta (that is, if we don’t go to the beach!) and then head back into town in early evening. As the golden hour shadows begin to fall, Makarska glows in a breathtaking new light.
Golden hour shadows fall upon Kačić Square, St. Mark’s Church, and Mount Biokovo. The karst limestone of the mountain and church provides a perfect canvas for the hour’s warm yellow shades.
And I’ll sign off by saying Cheers, or Živjeli, as they say in Croatian! Makarska’s sense of place and experience is so distinctly one-of-a-kind that when I am there, I’m wholly present, as if nothing else in the world exists. Thoughts of where I come from – home, work, daily routines, current events, even my figure skating – disappear. Indeed, writing this post has been a welcome escape in itself.
Cheers! from the terrace of Panorama, an ideal spot to watch the shadows fall.
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32 thoughts on “Makarska, Croatia Shadows”
Beautiful photos and your insight about Makarska is so inspiring!
What beautiful photos of a beautiful place! I’ve not heard of Makarska before, but it looks like a calm, laid-back kind of town: I can imagine one relaxing by the water and enjoying a glass of wine (or cup of coffee) while enjoying the views. Thanks for sharing such a wonderful destination!
Thanks, Rebecca! I think you’d have a great time in Makarska and the other towns on the Makarska Riviera. When visitors come to Dalmatia, many tend to go to Dubrovnik, Split, or Zadar. However, the smaller towns offer a more relaxing experience. Although in recent years, Makarska’s beaches have become more crowded in the summer months. But you can still find seats at cafes for coffee and wine 🙂☕🍷
Wow! Now THIS looks like a town worth visiting! (Or moving to, lol!) How lucky you are to have a family home here. 🙂 Definitely adding it to my list <3
Thank you so much, Theresa! I think there are lots of things you would like about it 🙂 And to this day I’m still pinching myself that a place like this just wandered into my life!
You write beautifully, Carolyn, and I could fall in love with Makarska. Does it get cold in the winter? For some reason I associate it with Montenegro. I love the mountain backdrop xx
Thank you so much, Jo 🙂 Makarska gets a little chilly in the winter, but doesn’t typically reach freezing. And it’s usually sunny, so doesn’t have the feel of being cold. You have a good eye… the geography is very similar to Montenegro, with the massive mountains and the sea. In that regard, it is more similar to Montenegro than many places in Croatia. And Montenegro is very nearby as the crow flies, just on the other side of Dubrovnik, which is only 85 miles from Makarksa.
Thank you so much! I’m happy you like the view! I never tire of it… one would think I’ve accumulated enough photos of it by now but I just can’t stop 🙂
Thank you so much for stopping by 🙂I think you would enjoy Makarska very much! In Dalmatia visitors tend to be drawn to Dubrovnik, Split, and Zadar, but these smaller towns offer so much as well. The islands are great, too. When we want to get away, we head to the island of Vis.
Beautiful captures that play with the light and shadows. Your husband grew up in a lovely area with a beautiful view of the sea. Funny how much you tend to take for granted when younger.
I know, right 🤣 As they say, youth is wasted on the young! Luckily, he appreciates it now! We’ve accumulated dozens and dozens of photos of it over the years at all times of the day.
Thank you so much for the kind words and for stopping by! I’m thrilled that you appreciated my detailed explanations 🙂 I enjoy writing so it is fun to share. And the context makes the images all the more meaningful.
Happy Halloween! I happened upon this creepily cute little ghost earlier this month. I was captivated by the chilling atmosphere created by the display. It conjured up feelings of walking into a scene from a horror movie. I wish I could say this was my yard!
And these little jack-o’-lanterns are super cute, too.
Have a great Halloween! Have fun and stay safe.
In other news, I plan to write more blog posts in the weeks and months to come. I’ve taken a bit of an unintentional break from blogging for the past three months. The fall has flown by so fast! In addition to work, I was training for a figure skating test, which I ended up having to postpone due to an injury incurred in practicing for said test. So it threw me off a little bit. And the change in seasons can also create a bit of a slump. I miss those warmer and sunnier summer days. But I am looking forward to the holidays to come in the next couple months. At any rate, I’m finally getting back in the groove!
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24 thoughts on “Happy Halloween!”
Happy Halloween! The decorations look spooky and awesome! I’m sorry you had to take time off due to injury; I hope you recover soon! Have a wonderful November and holiday season ahead!
Happy Halloween, it’s the most frightful time of the year! I always love seeing decorations from around the world, as it helps me to get into the Halloween spirit. We didn’t have many decorations around Sligo this year, and that’s why we travelled to Scotland, where we had a chance to experience Halloween fright in full swing with spooky costumes and ghastly pumpkins and plenty of seasonal activities for the kids. Sorry to hear about your injury. Wishing you a speedy recovery. Feel better soon! Thanks for sharing, and have a good day 🙂 Aiva xx
Thank you so much, Aiva! Your trip to Scotland sounds like a lot of fun! What a great time for you and your family. I’d like to experience Halloween traditions in another country some day.
Good to have you back, Carolyn. She’s a wonderfully ghostly figure, though I’m no fan of Halloween. My daughter has gone to a Halloween Ball in York, but there don’t seem to be many little trick or treaters here this year. We have loads of sweets left! xx
Thank you so much, Jo! I must admit that while I enjoy looking at the decorations, in more recent years my husband and I haven’t been handing out candy… our house is one of those with the lights off, ha ha! We want to relax in the evenings. I’m intrigued by this Halloween Ball in York… I will have to look that up.
Hope you had a Happy Halloween. I’m impressed at how creative some people get with their Halloween decorations. Sorry to hear about your injury, hopefully you’ll recover quickly. I’m looking forward to the holidays as well. I’ve started putting away my fall and Halloween decor this weekend and was debating whether to put up some of my Christmas stuff!
Me too 🙂 I’m thinking there’s nothing wrong with keeping the festivities going, no matter the holiday. That’s what is so great about this time of year!
Amazing Halloween finds, creative and eye catching! I look forward to reading your upcoming blogs.
Thank you 🙂👍
Thank you so much for stopping by! I just realized I didn’t reply to your message. I’m looking forward to your upcoming posts as well 🙂
Yes indeed 🙂 In fact, I just realized I didn’t reply to your comment. Thank you so much for stopping by! And I’m looking forward to your posts, about a part of the country near and dear to my heart.
In this post, I share several snapshots of strawberries from a trip to Sweden over the Midsummer holiday. Midsummer, or Midsommar in Swedish, occurs on the June summer solstice, the longest day of the year in the Northern Hemisphere. While many European countries mark the solstice, Midsummer celebrations are most common in the Scandinavian countries of Northern Europe, where the extended – indeed almost constant – hours of daylight provide a welcome relief from the short and dark days of winter.
My husband and I enjoyed indulging in many slices of Midsummer cake, a staple of Midsummer celebrations. Strawberries are the star of the delectable and seemingly light dessert, set atop a simple foundation of vanilla cake and cream. The cake’s mild flavors complement the sweetness of the strawberries and allow them to shine. Indeed, the strawberry is emblematic of Midsummer itself. The fruit is rendered exceptionally sweet by the growing conditions unique to Scandinavian summers, including copious amounts of sunlight and cooler temperatures. Thus, strawberries are ubiquitous throughout Sweden’s markets in the fleeting summer months.
Admittedly, this post may have made more sense last month but then I wouldn’t have been able to submit it for The Life of B’s SimplyRed July square photo challenge! The photos were taken on a digital camera. I acknowledge the elephant in the room that the post is missing a photo of Midsummer cake. We just weren’t into taking photos of food as much back then!
Fresh strawberries for sale in Stockholm. It is amazing how equally ripe and red they are! There isn’t a bad one in the bunch.
The ripe and luscious fruits were sold in square containers labeled “Svenska jordgubbar” or “Swedish strawberries” in English. The blue and yellow stripe on the container reflects the colors of the Swedish flag. And for the square photo challenge, I like how the below image captures squares within a square!
Squares within a square.
We discovered the strawberries while wandering around the market at Stockholm’s Hötorget Square. The market sits in front of the bluish-hued neoclassical Stockholm Concert Hall, where the Nobel Prize Award Ceremony is held each year (with the exception of the Peace Prize ceremony, held in Norway).
Strawberries and other fresh fruits for sale at Stockholm’s Hötorget Flea Market. The Stockholm Concert Hall is in the background. And my husband in a red shirt! He happens to be an academic so the concert hall’s esteemed purpose as the site of the Nobel Prize Award Ceremony was of particular interest.
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20 thoughts on “Sweet Summery Snapshots from Sweden”
oh wow so many strawberries – not sure I’ve ever seen so many at a market. They look delicious, and such fun your husband is in red too. Thank you for squaring again
Thank you so much for hosting this fun and creative challenge! I, too hadn’t seen so many strawberries before, and such fresh and ripe ones at that. Sweden is definitely the place for them, even if just for a brief fleeting time.
I never even knew they were such great strawberry growers. Love how much I learn during Squares
Nice! Funny enough, my fiancée and I were in Sweden during Midsummer, too (albeit in a smaller city, not Stockholm). While absolutely gorgeous, it was also quite hot (high 70s) and almost nothing was open to truly enjoy the experience. All the same, Sweden is a gorgeous country, especially in warmer months, and I’m glad you got to be there during one of the nation’s most-important holidays!
I’m sorry you had bad weather and things were closed! The weather wasn’t the greatest for us, either. It rained a lot. We got around the holiday closures by spending one day ferry hopping in the Stockholm Archipelago. The public transportation was still going. Thank you so much for stopping by!
I forgive you about the cake, Carolyn. I’ve eaten my share this month. Such healthy looking strawberries! I’d love to ferry hop around the archipelago xx
That’s hilarious! I thought about you right after I wrote that about the cake 🤣 The ferry hopping was great, although there weren’t a lot of people on some of the islands and we were worried we might get forgotten on the dock! I was missing the Swedish strawberries today… I had strawberries with yogurt for lunch and it just wasn’t the same.
As I’ve never heard of Swedish Midsummer cake, I had to use my search engine to look it up. I wouldn’t mind a slice of two of it. I can’t think of a better combination than whipped cream and ripe summer berries. Your strawberry photos are beautiful – I love their vibrant red hue and heart shape. Thanks for sharing, and have a good day 🙂 I hope your summer is going well 🙂 Aiva xx
Thank you so much, Aiva 🙂I, too, hadn’t heard of the cake until I visited there, having only heard of the holiday. The mix of strawberries and cream was like ambrosia… such a simple yet flavorful combination. I’m a fan of those kinds of cakes, where less is more! Take care and have a great rest of the summer!
Those strawberries look enticing. I like strawberries but here in my tropical country it is expensive as they’re mostly imported.
I am curious about the midsummer cake.
My husband and I are not making a trip to Croatia this summer so I thought I’d reminisce by writing about past trips to the country, a place we’ve traveled to on an almost annual basis since 2001. One destination we’ve visited time and time again is the city of Dubrovnik, that idyllic and almost otherworldly spot in the southernmost part of Croatia’s coastal Dalmatia region. It is renowned for its Old Town, a UNESCO world heritage site characterized by terra cotta roofs surrounded by a medieval wall, jutting out into the tranquil waters of the Adriatic Sea. The city has been a tourist destination since the 19th century when Lord Byron coined it “the pearl of the Adriatic,” a moniker that endures to this day.
In this post, I share images from my Dubrovnik photo archive from 2001 to 2012. Some are traditional, familiar, and enduring, while others note the drastic and remarkable change over that time, an evolution that occurred seemingly overnight. For during this time period, the city emerged from the trauma of the Yugoslav Wars of the 1990s to become a world-class tourist destination, sought after not just for its incomparable beauty and enduring history, but as a favored filming location for the entertainment industry.
And bonus, I’ve squared most of the reddish terra cotta-hued photos so the post qualifies for The Life of B’s SimplyRed July square photo challenge! The photos from 2001 were taken on a film camera and the rest on a digital camera. None were taken on a cell phone camera (in fact, smart phones weren’t yet a thing when most of the photos were taken!).
Over the years, I’ve photographed Dubrovnik’s Old Town from a distance at the very same spot. Albeit threatened over time by war and over-tourism, the Old Town’s look remains steadfast, its colors altered only by changes in the weather. The two stars of Dubrovnik’s Old Town are its medieval wall and terra cotta roofs. Rather than try to determine which I like better, I view them as inextricably intertwined. And the Adriatic Sea is the icing on the cake, adding a dramatic final touch!
My first ever view of Dubrovnik in June 2001. The sea was a beautiful mix of azure shades, reflecting the colors of the sky.
A mostly clear and bright sunny day in June. The yacht in the lower left is an indication that tourism has re-emerged.
A cloudier and cooler day in May 2009. The rooftops and sea exhibited darker shades of red and cobalt. Indicators of mass tourism are evident in the tiny boats bringing guests from massive cruise ships to the Old Town, headed for the marina.
A humid and hazy day in June. While the heat and humidity were a bit uncomfortable, the haziness created a dreamy look.
Construction of Dubrovnik’s medieval wall commenced in 800 AD. The bulk of its construction took place in the 13th century when the complete perimeter was laid, with updates occurring through the 17th century. I am amazed at how it has survived over such a vast time period and, in particular, the 1990s war. For I remember shocking and sickening images of shells striking parts of the wall in news reports about the Siege of Dubrovnik. Thankfully, damage was limited and the wall continues to endure.
My husband and I atop the medieval wall in 2001, the first time we traveled to Dubrovnik together. A Croatian expat, my husband hadn’t been to Dubrovnik since before the 1990s war. Part of the wall’s perimeter is in the background, and of course the terra cotta rooftops. Behind the mountain, as the crow flies, the country of Bosnia and Herzegovina is less than three miles away. And I promise we both didn’t intend to wear red! We’d been traveling and those shirts just happened to be clean. I guess the color is sort of in sync with the rooftops!
A section of the wall, constructed of limestone, perched atop a limestone cliff.
My husband explores the wall in 2001 (left). There were so few tourists we had parts of the wall to ourselves. On the right, one of the wall’s guard towers and a statue of Saint Blaise, the patron saint of Dubrovnik.
The wall and a guard tower in the foreground and Fort Lovrijenac in the background, both complemented by lush greenery and plants. Fort Lovrijenac was one of the filming locations for the Game of Thrones series.
Atop the wall in 2008, the island of Lokrum in the background. Lokrum served as a quarantine site in medieval times for travelers and goods entering Dubrovnik, then a city-state known as the Republic of Ragusa and active in commerce. In contemporary times, Lokrum was one of the filming sites for Game of Thrones.
Walking atop the wall provides sweeping views of the Old Town’s signature terra cotta roofs.
Rooftops viewed from the wall.A rooftop close-up. I like how there are at least two, maybe three different shades of terra cotta.
A disheartening reality of the Old Town’s roofs in the first decade of the 21st century was that they were, in a figurative sense, a map of the war damage of the late 20th century, when many were damaged during the Siege of Dubrovnik by the Yugoslav People’s Army from 1991 to 1992. The war in Croatia ended in 1995 and by 2001, most of the damaged roofs had been repaired with bright red and orange terra cotta tile, in contrast to the older surviving tile in terra cotta shades bleached by time. An actual map of the war damage can be found next to the Pile Gate, the main entrance to Dubrovnik’s Old Town, and it indicates that hardly any of the roofs remained unscathed.
In 2001 (left), bleached roofs that survived the 1990s war are in the foreground, while newer and brighter repaired roofs are in the background. On the right, damage from the Siege of Dubrovnik remains as late as 2007 on the sides of a building in its pock-marked plaster.
By mid-decade, Dubrovnik’s aura had transformed from war recovery to tourist destination, attracting more visitors than at any other time in its history. And by the end of the decade and beyond, Dubrovnik came to be known as one of the top places in the world suffering from the deleterious effects of mass tourism, including suffocating crowds of people, inflated prices, and rightfully cranky locals. If there is anything that sums up these changes in Dubrovnik, one need look no further than the harbor. In 2001, naval vessels from around the world were docked, assisting with postwar peace-keeping efforts in the region. Just a few years later, the naval vessels had been replaced by giant cruise ships packed with tourists.
On the left in 2001, a US naval vessel assisting with post-war peace-keeping efforts is docked outside Dubrovnik. On the right just a few years later, a giant cruise ship arrives.
Another barometer of the skyrocketing switch towards tourism is the Stradun, the main artery through Dubrovnik’s Old Town. In 2001, it was possible to stroll the pedestrian thoroughfare without rubbing the shoulders of other tourists. In fact, some of the guests wandering the Stradun weren’t tourists, but military personnel aiding in peace-keeping efforts. My husband and I remember sipping coffee in a cafe along the Stradun and chatting with a US sailor from the above vessel docked in the harbor. By 2007, the Stradun was packed with tourists from side to side and end to end.
The Stradun in 2001 (left), when tourism was just beginning to re-emerge, and in 2007 (right), by which time tourism was in full swing (and then some!).
Improvement in infrastructure also helped Dubrovnik’s tourism industry surge. Completed in April 2002, construction of a bridge over the Rijeka Dubrovačka, an inlet just up the coast from Dubrovnik, cut automobile travel time to the city by 30 minutes.
Construction of the bridge above the Rijeka Dubrovačka inlet was well underway in 2001.
If anything were to cement Dubrovnik’s return to tourism by the end of the decade, it was the reopening of the cable car to the top of Srd Hill in 2010. The cable car incurred severe damage during the Siege of Dubrovnik, although my husband has childhood memories of its closure prior to the start of the war. The cable car affords a breathtakingly unique vantage point from which to take in the Old Town, almost as if one is floating above it.
My husband standing in the winds atop the wall in 2001 with Srd Hill rising up in the background. One of the support towers of the damaged cable car is just beneath the top of the hill towards the right.View of the Old Town after taking the cable car to the top of Srd Hill in 2012. The cable and a support tower are visible. I wish I’d snapped a photo with the car itself!
In closing, I’ll share a few parting shots from within the wall’s confines, a place worth exploring on its own.
The Jesuit Stairs before they became the filming site of one of the most disturbing scenes in the Game of Thrones series.
A local creating and selling crafts inspired by Croatian folk art.
The Large Onofrio Fountain, constructed in the 15th century and a popular spot for visitors to take a break.
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28 thoughts on “A Decade in Dubrovnik”
What a cool retrospective! I’m pretty jealous that you have been going since before Game of Thrones lol. It was on my list forever but we didn’t manage to visit until 2018 and by that time I feel like the GoT tourism was in full swing and we missed the quieter window of it being somewhat under the radar. It’s such a wonderful place and it was cool to see how similar your photos between 2001 and more recent still were!
Thank you so much, Theresa! I’m happy to hear you’ve been to Dubrovnik, even in the touristy times. I’m hoping that perhaps the novelty of GoT will begin to erode and maybe those quieter times will return somewhat, but who am I kidding!
Gorgeous! Dubrovnik is a lovely city, although I agree it’s suffering from over-tourism: I first visited in 2006 (pre-GOT hype), and it was already starting to get crowded with tourists. By the time I returned in 2018, it was PACKED! It’s wonderful you’ve gotten to visit Croatia so many times over the years with your Croatian husband, and while it’s a shame that the country’s become super touristy and expensive, it’s also generating income into its economy. Thanks for sharing!
Thank you so much, Rebecca! That’s wonderful that you were able to experience Dubrovnik back before it became so overwhelmed. Definitely an experience to be cherished! And agreed, the country has changed so much… in fact, they had to change their tourism logo more than a decade ago from “Croatia: The Mediterranean as it Once Was” to “Croatia: Full of Life!”
So many beautiful photos and a lifetime of memories. I haven’t been to Dubrovnik, but it looks like a wonderful city to visit, especially as you can walk around Dubrovnik Old Town wall for an opportunity to admire the city and its surroundings from several vantage points and take some beautiful pictures of rooftop views. I’ve read all about the crowds many times, and while the crowds can be a drawback, Dubrovnik still offers a unique and enjoyable experience. Thanks for sharing, and have a good day 🙂 Aiva xx
Agreed! It definitely still offers a unique and enjoyable experience, and going out and about in the evening after the cruisers have departed does provide a bit of a respite from the crowds. I hope you and your family can make it there one day! Have a great rest of the week 😊
You’ll be sad not to visit Croatia this year. We were in pre-war Dubrovnik and loved it. I’ve always meant to explore more of the country but it hasn’t happened yet. I say to myself maybe next year xx
Wow! Pre-war Dubrovnik… that must have been amazing, a whole other world. If you ever decide to travel to Croatia again and have any questions, just let me know! And yes, I’m really bummed we aren’t going there this year. Life seems out of balance without that trip. I miss it so much.
Thanks, Carolyn. I’ve wanted to visit Hvar and Korcula for ages but it’s quite expensive these days and not so easy to get to from here. There are so many easier places, but it still might happen. xx
Agreed! It is kind of out of the way to get to, even in Europe. And since it joined the Euro zone prices have escalated even higher, including for Croatians.
I enjoyed walking through this intriguing city, thanks to your post. There is a lot to see. Well shared.
wonderful reds – somewhere I have never been but would have loved to have visited before the crowds of tourists. This is a fabulous set of first squares
It’s wonderful that you’ve been able to visit Croatia so often over the last two decades. Dubrovnik looks lovely. And it’s neat to see your pictures over the years and to hear how much things have changed with regards to tourism. We’ve never been, but it’s very high on our travel list.
I think you all would have a wonderful time wandering the wall! A great opportunity for cute family photos 😊Thank you so much for stopping by, as always! Have a great week.
You are so lucky you get to go to Croatia almost yearly. Dubrovnik had been sitting on top of my bucket list since I learned about it from watching Game of Thrones. I fear when I go it will be packed. Are there lean tourist seasons?
Thank you so much! I think the cruisers are now present in all seasons, but mid-fall might be a less crazy time. The winter months tend to have milder weather due to the Mediterranean climate, so that could work as well.
Thank you so much! I, too, like the close up and have been wanting to do something with that photo for years. It’s just been languishing in my archive so I was thrilled to finally share it. Thanks for stopping by!
Window boxes filled with bright and cheery red geraniums liven up the dark and dreary austere façade of a functionalist style apartment building in Bratislava, the capital of Slovakia. I took this photo from the window of the room where my husband and I stayed when we visited friends in the city.
Our friends enjoyed feeding a pair of Eurasian collared doves from the window sill of our room, where the doves would visit us several times per day.
A pair of Eurasian collared doves waiting to be fed.
Our friends’ neighborhood consisted of repetitive rows of functionalist apartment blocks within walking distance of Bratislava’s city center. I took the below photo from the kitchen window of their apartment. The lush green trees provide a welcome and much-needed contrast to the mundane and unadorned grey buildings. The practical simplicity of the buildings’ design (including the windows!) is characteristic of functionalist architecture. Due to the lack of adornment, this architectural style does not accommodate dirt well – there simply isn’t anything to detract from it – hence the buildings’ dark and dreary demeanor.
Apartment blocks in the functionalist architectural style. And lots of windows!
I’ll close this post with a couple fascinating facts about Bratislava. Located on the banks of the Danube River, together with its greater metropolitan area Bratislava shares a border with both Austria and Hungary. Vienna, Austria is a mere 49.6 miles (79.9 kilometers) away. I must admit, I did not realize how proximate Bratislava and Vienna were until I traveled there. For I grew up in the last quarter of the twentieth century, a time when the two cities’ political circumstances were anything but proximate… Vienna, a part of the free West, and Bratislava, reluctantly behind the Iron Curtain, back when present day Slovakia was part of Czechoslovakia, a member of the Eastern Bloc. Slovakia gained independence on January 1, 1993.
This post was submitted as part of the Monday Window photo challenge.
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23 thoughts on “Monday Window in Bratislava, Slovakia”
Your photo of repetitive rows of functionalist apartment blocks reminds me very much of Riga’s Ziepniekkalns district, which is renowned for its extensive rows of functionalist apartment blocks, too. They were built during the Soviet era as a prominent example of Soviet urban planning. These apartment blocks are characterised by their large size, concrete panel construction, and standardised layouts, designed to house a rapidly growing population. Some of the blocks contain more than a hundred apartments! Thanks for sharing, and have a good day 🙂 Aiva xx
Yes, a kind of generic modern, I suppose. Although the apartment blocks in the former East constructed mid-last century are in their own category of uniqueness, I think! Thank you so much for stopping by!
Yes, that sounds like a great combination! Very near to one another geographically, and some similar history as well, given they were all once a part of the Habsburg and Austro-Hungarian Empires.
My grandmother used to plant geraniums in her backyard. I always get a hanging basket of red geraniums every summer now because they remind me of her. The collared doves are very cute. Lovely set of shots.
What a lovely memory! I love trying to incorporate special moments and traditions from the past into the present day. Lots of good feelings that way! Thank you so much for stopping by and your kind comments. 😊
I love the pretty flowers jazzing up the otherwise drab exterior of that building. Hopefully the resident enjoys them from inside the apartment too! 🙂 Bratislava was never on my radar to visit but I went there anyway years ago because it was an option on our bus route lol. I’m glad I did! We thought it was super cute and I would love to go back there again someday.
Thanks for stopping by, Theresa! Always great to see you. I was pleased to find that the apartment interiors are much more unique and special than the exterior. The residents find a way to make their space their own. I’m glad you were able to make a quick visit to Bratislava!
Loved this peek into Bratislava! The bright geraniums bring life to the simple functionalist buildings, and the story of the visiting doves is so charming. It’s surprising how close Bratislava is to Vienna, given their history. Thanks for sharing these lovely moments!
Just want to say you shine on your figure skating blog. Love that you’re doing that “at your age” (as though there were a ceiling on when we may have fun ’til while keeping fit).
The weather in France in spring – that mercurial season stretching from March 20 to June 20 – can be unpredictable and daunting to pack for. For it is not unusual to arrive in late March to beautiful sunshine and bright blue skies, only to depart in early June in rain and gloom. Indeed, the only reliable prediction one can make about spring weather in France is that it will change, and then change again, and again…
A packed café in Bordeaux in late March. The bright and sunny weather drew the Bordelais out and about. It was impossible to find a seat!
And an empty café in front of the Cathédrale Saint-André de Bordeaux on a chilly and gloomy April day.
The Opéra Garnier in Paris on a bright and sunny day in late May. And don’t let the blue skies fool you… it was still a little bit chilly!
And a gloomy view of Paris from the steps of the Basilique du Sacré-Cœur de Montmartre in early June.
And finally, mid-June in Paris is absolutely lovely! Time to experience one of the most quintessential Parisian activities in the late spring and summer months: picnicking and hanging out on the Champ de Mars by the Eiffel Tower. My husband and I enjoyed the opportunity to don clothes for warmer temperatures, finally on a trend toward summer.
Packing a wardrobe for travel to France in such a temperamental season can be conquered with some easy tips. In this post, I share how my sister-in-law and I packed for this fickle season. We traveled to France separately in the spring months in two different years. When comparing photos, we were struck by how similar (and smart!) our wardrobe choices were. Our style is one of simple, practical elegance. It reflects one of my top goals for travel dressing, blending in more than standing out, while still looking good.It consists of pieces that can be worn together or on their own, adaptable to a variety of weather conditions and complemented by easy, packable accessories. And a testament to the versatility of our style is that my sister-and-law and I are from two different countries. Thus, our style transcends cultures.
My spring travel packing list consists of the following key items. 1) A trench coat for cooler days; 2) a couple pairs of jeans; 3) several long-sleeve and three-quarter sleeve tops in neutral tones (I prefer black) that can be layered under a trench coat or worn on their own; 4) cute but comfortable footwear for miles of walking; 5) one to two pairs of unassuming, neutral-toned earrings; 6) sunglasses; 7) an umbrella; and 8) hands-free yet secure purses such as a cross-body or backpack. In order to maximize space in my suitcase, I wear my trench coat on the plane and store it in the overhead bin.
If I am traveling toward the end of spring when there are more warmer days than cooler, I’ll also include short-sleeve and sleeveless tops, a casual dress (simply because I like wearing dresses when the weather is warmer), and a pair of transitional shoes such as sandals. But the sandals must be comfortable! And I may swipe out the trench coat for a cardigan sweater.
My sister-in-law striking a pose in front of the Louis Vuitton store in Paris. She captures lots of items from the packing list, including a neutral-toned black top, trench coat, cross-body purse, comfortable yet cute tennis shoes, jeans, and sunglasses. A scarf is conveniently tied in a knot around her purse strap.
On this chilly day at Versailles, she bundled up and made use of the scarf. And the black Dr. Martens boots with comfortable air-cushioned soles are always in style!
On this cloudy day in Bordeaux, I stand in front of the Porte Grosse Cloche in a black trench coat, dark wash jeans, and black tennis shoes. I bought the trench coat at Nordstrom, a department store with a broad selection.
Another day for the trench coat at the Cité du Vin in Bordeaux. And we mustn’t forget the men! My husband packs a lot of crew neck sweaters and long-sleeve T-shirts when he travels in the spring.
For those sunny and warmer spring days, it is a relief to leave the trench coat back in the hotel room! On those days, I wear a neutral top all by itself. I’m partial to the Cyprus Top by Peruvian Connection. One of their best sellers, Peruvian Connection carries it in lots of versions – long-sleeve, three-quarter sleeve, sleeveless, print, and solid – year after year. And if the top is low in stock at the moment, never fear… it will reappear! I also like the retailers Velvet by Graham & Spencer and Michael Stars, although you can find cute tops just about anywhere! I complete my sunny day ensemble with sunglasses and, as always, regardless of the weather, a neutral pair of earrings. My go-to earrings are the Elle by Kendra Scott. A Kendra Scott staple, the Elle comes in a wide range of colors and is available season after season. And bonus, all Kendra Scott earrings come with a tiny cloth storage pouch ideal for packing.
Along the banks of the River Seine, across from the Musée du Louvre. I’m sporting my Peruvian ConnectionCyprus top, as well as Kate Spade sunglasses and the Elle earrings by Kendra Scott.
My outfit made many repeat appearances. There’s no harm in it! Apart from travel companions, it’s not as if anyone is going to notice.
Lately, I’m also partial to the simple and sleek long sleeve drop shoulder top by Norma Kamali, in black. While I bought this top over a year ago, Norma Kamali has some version of it available at all times. A Google search indicates that other retailers carry it as well, for example, Bloomingdale’s and Zappos.
The simple, sophisticated, and just the right amount of sexy long sleeve drop shoulder top by Norma Kamali. And disclaimer: I bought this top after returning from France. It will be in my suitcase the next time I travel there! My husband’s navy button down shirt is a staple travel piece as well.
Once late spring arrives, it’s warm enough to wear sleeveless shirts and summery dresses. Although the weather is warmer, I still favor clothes in neutral tones.
At the Place de la Concorde in a black tiered maxi dress, my go to travel dress for warmer weather. I found this one at Old Navy. Maxi dresses have a certain elegance about them due to the longer length. And due to the balance the length provides, it is possible to show a little more skin on top and still look covered. In the background are the Hôtel de la Marine and Hôtel de Crillon, and in the way back, the columns of La Madeleine.
Wearing a neutral-toned tank top in a city that is not in France. Can you guess where I am on this quick weekend getaway from Paris? Three hints: We took the Thalys train from Paris-Nord; enjoyed local beers on the Grande-Place, one of the most beautiful squares in Europe; and visited the headquarters of the European Union.
Now, let’s talk purses. I have carried both cross-body and backpack purses, which are convenient for travel due to their hands-free nature. When deciding which kind to carry, I consider what I need on that particular day. If it’s just the bare essentials, for example, passport, wallet, and phone, a cross-body works well. If I’d like to add a water bottle, umbrella, camera, and guidebook, I carry a backpack purse. When selecting a backpack purse, I look for one with a zipper to prevent pick pockets from reaching in. No matter what I carry, I’m partial to black leather, a classic that never goes out of style. In terms of brands, lately I’m liking Hobo.
Carrying a black leather cross-body purse at Chateau de Villandry. I’m also wearing a pair of comfortable black sandals, a great transitional shoe for late spring into early summer. My husband and I are both wearing cargo pants, a fashion trend I did not see much of in France. I would probably not wear them again on a future trip, as they do not blend in well.
My husband took this photo of me strolling by the bouquinistes in Paris over twenty years ago. While my black leather backpack purse is a piece almost as timeless as the Notre-Dame cathedral in the background, my circa 2004 jeans and bright blue t-shirt are not!
And from the archives, as in, late last century! I spent my junior year of college studying abroad in Paris so consulted my photos from that memorable time to see what insights they could provide for spring dressing in France. While it was the 1990s, I was pleased to discover a classic piece that is still en vogue today: the navy blazer. Now, of course some fashion trends have changed since the 1990s, for example, shoulder pads are no longer in style, but the jacket’s overall look and versatility remains the same. I also purchased a pair of espadrilles that spring, a comfortable transitional shoe for the spring to summer months. Not only did I wear them all over Paris, they held up for over a decade. A great souvenir!
On a Paris park bench in my navy blazer and espadrilles. The jeans truly date the picture, from a time when denim was always the same shade of blue and even the slim fit jeans were baggy. But the overall look still works!
I wore my navy blazer all over Paris that spring, including on this early morning in mid-May. My time in Paris was winding down so my friends and I spent an entire night just wandering around the city, taking in the lights, watching the sunrise, and eating breakfast at a bakery.
We mustn’t forget the kiddos! Since becoming an aunt, I’ve picked up on some ingenious tips for dressing children when traveling. For younger children prone to wandering off, pack clothes in bright colors so they are easy to spot and keep track of. And for slightly older children, allow them to carry their belongings in their own backpack or cross-body purse. Not only do they learn responsibility, it’s less stuff for the parents to carry!
My wandering nephew is dressed in bright red so he’s easy to spot and keep track of.
My niece rocks a cross-body purse on the Place du Trocadéro across from the Eiffel Tower.
And perhaps my most favorite photo of this post…
My niece and a Generation Alpha cohort share a glance, looking super cute in their coats with faux fur trim. And the little Parisienne looks très chic in her shades!
In closing, even with all its wardrobe challenges, spring is my favorite time of year to visit France. Although there are some gloomy, cooler, and wet days, the days are getting longer and it isn’t too cold or too hot. And when the sun comes out, it is just right. While tourism is a reality in France all year long, the vibe is a bit calmer in the spring, much more so than the exceptionally busy summer season that follows. Bon voyage!
My sister-in-law and her family enjoying a rainy spring day in Paris.
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21 thoughts on “Spring Travel in France: What to Wear”
I’ve lived in France for several years and experienced plenty of temperamental spring months. I also returned to France a couple of years ago in the spring for a holiday, and it was incredible that one day, it’d be cold and windy, and the next would be sunny and uncomfortably hot! I did my best to pack smartly and wear layers while out and about, but even then, it was a struggle to predict the weather. To be fair, the point isn’t to predict, but rather embrace the varying temperatures in one day…in true French style, haha! Thanks for sharing your adventures and advice on packing for France in the spring!
My pleasure! This was a fun post to write. I’m happy to learn that you have lived and traveled in France as well 😊 And embrace the weather as opposed to predict it… a genius approach!
Spring is the perfect time to visit so many destinations, and you’re always susceptible to changes in the weather, but when the sun’s out it’s lovely, isn’t it? Enjoy!
The spring is my favourite time of the year to travel, but the weather can definitely be unpredictable. It’s always good to blend in while still looking cute and being comfortable! Beautiful pictures of you and your family. You’re very stylish – even back in the 90s!
So many beautiful photos! When the sun is out and the flowers are booming, spring is such a beautiful time of the year to visit France and Europe. The weather is neither too cold nor too hot. It is just perfect for sightseeing and exploring France, which is at its peak of beauty. I used to love traveling during the spring months as they were much quieter, but over the last few years, we always encountered heavy rain and moody days, so now, I am quite reluctant. A family friend just came back from a trip to Tenerife, where it was raining non-stop for the whole duration of his trip. And now torrential rain has caused floods in eastern Spain that swept away cars as local authorities evacuated schools and closed roads. Thanks for sharing, and have a good day 🙂 Aiva xx
You are most kind, Aiva 😊I’m sorry to hear about your recent experience traveling in spring and also what happened in Spain. I hope climate change doesn’t ruin the season. It sounds like it already might be starting to.
Thank you so much for stopping by and your kind comment😊 And yes! I think the maritime locations of both countries, either within or bordering the north Atlantic make the weather patterns and associated dressing challenges very similar in the spring.
This is a post I never predicted I would write, but I am compelled to write it before I can write about anything else.
I’d like to take the time to remember the 67 victims of the deadly mid-air collision between American Airlines Flight 5342 and an Army Black Hawk helicopter over the waters of the Potomac River in Washington, DC the evening of Wednesday, January 29, 2025. Flight 5342 originated in Wichita, Kansas and was preparing to land at Reagan National Airport. Among Flight 5342’s 60 passengers and 4 crew, almost half were members of the close-knit figure skating community here in the USA, returning from a competition and training camp. On the helicopter were three soldiers conducting a training mission in one of the busiest corridors for commercial, military, and government aviation in the country. In fact, according to news reports, at least one near miss between a commercial airliner and Army helicopter had occurred in the corridor before. There were no survivors of the collision and Flight 5342 became the first fatal crash of a US commercial airliner since 2009.
This tragic event hits home for me in two ways. First, as a member of the figure skating community who loves and practices the sport of figure skating, and second, as a native of Kansas, the state where I was born and raised, having lived there until I left for college.
As I was watching the news late Wednesday night, I learned that Flight 5342 originated in Wichita, Kansas. In that moment, a sickening, sinking feeling washed over me as I remembered that the 2025 United States Figure Skating Championships had just concluded there. It was quite possible that people from the figure skating community were aboard the flight, returning home after the competition. And then Thursday morning, I learned that horrific hunch was true.
For those of us in the figure skating community, thoughts of the victims and their families have been occupying a massive amount of space in our minds the past five days, as we go about our daily activities in a stupor of sadness. At the time I am writing this post, it is known that 28* people from the figure skating community perished in the crash, including 11 up and coming figure skaters aged 11 to 16; 4 coaches, two of whom were former world champions in pairs skating; and 13 parents traveling with their children. They represented four skating clubs in the USA: Washington Figure Skating Club, the Skating Club of Northern Virginia, the Skating Club of Boston, and the University of Delaware Figure Skating Club. They were returning from the elite, invitation-only US Figure Skating National Development Camp. The training camp, held in conjunction with the 2025 United States Figure Skating Championships, was for promising young skaters who demonstrated an aptitude for future greatness and success on the national and international stage. I’m touched by how the skaters’ parents on the flight supported their children until the very end, a most esteemed and noble act.
This isn’t the first time the US figure skating community has been struck by tragedy. In 1961, the US figure skating team was killed in a plane crash as they traveled to the world figure skating championships. Then, just like now, much of the sport’s future was decimated. I have no idea what awaits us after we die, but can only hope that the 1961 team was there to welcome the skaters as they passed from this life into whatever is next.
And as a Kansas native, I’m moved by the stories of three remarkable young women from the state. One a civil rights attorney with degrees from Wichita State University and Harvard University who recently accepted a faculty appointment in the law school at Howard University. Another a biology professor at Butler County Community College who was the newly elected president of the National Association of Biology Teachers and was traveling to DC to perform her first tasks in that leadership role. And yet another was a bright and intellectually curious engineering student at Cedarville University in Ohio. Indeed, each of these young women represents the very best of Kansas. They make me proud to say I grew up in the state.
I would like to acknowledge that while the media has been focusing much attention on the stories of the figure skaters, what some may claim is an inordinate amount, each person who perished in this tragedy has a story that deserves to be told, listened to, and remembered. To learn more about the passengers on Flight 5342 and the Army Black Hawk helicopter, visit this link on ABC News: https://abcnews.go.com/US/dc-crash-victims-aboard-american-airlines-flight-5342/story?id=118250442
As I’ve gotten older, I have at times pondered about how much time I have left. This tragedy reminds me of the brevity of life and the finality of death, how all we really have is this moment. Rather than thinking and obsessing about what hasn’t yet unfolded, we should focus on today and those around us whom we care about the most. And if there is anything the inspiring young figure skaters can teach us, it is to use our moments in this life to pursue our dreams and do what makes us happy, no matter our age nor chapter of life we are in.
A nationwide vigil to remember the victims of Flight 5342 was held at 3:35 pm Eastern Time on Monday, February 3 at figure skating clubs across the USA. I attended the one held at my club in the Denver area. Pictured above are club members and affiliates after the vigil. Due to the 1:35 pm start time in my part of the country, many club members had school and work obligations, but a handful of us were able to make it. A few of us held battery operated candles. To the victims, you are forever in our hearts. To the families, you are not alone.
Carolyn, this is tragic! I’m so sorry for the loss of all those young folk and their families. I was only marginally aware of the circumstances until I read this. It leaves a yawning gap in your stomach.
Thank you for sharing more details and your thoughts about the DC plane crash. It’s a tragedy what happened and to hear that so many of those that died were children with such bright futures. I never used to think much about death and dying, but it’s been on my mind a lot this past year ever since becoming a mother. You’re absolutely right about how we should focus on the present and be grateful for all the moments. Life is a gift and we should make the most of it each and every day.
This is such a tragedy and a disturbing catastrophe – I cried my eyes out once they started identifying all the crash victims and photos of them started to appear online and the full weight and impact of the lives lost grew heavier. You know, senseless tragedies like these make me think about how we are only given one life to make the most of. We only have one shot to go after our dreams, achieve the things we want, and find joy in our decisions. So many people live small. They shrink themselves to better fit in. They’ll play it safe throughout their careers. They won’t ask the person they have a crush on out. And so, you spend your life fantasizing how things could’ve been different or better. And that’s on you. Making the most out of life involves putting yourself out there. Sure, you might land flat on your face, but is that even a new experience? Don’t we all stumble now and then. Taking a risk means being open to possibly getting everything you’ve wanted for yourself and your life. Thanks for sharing, and have a good day 🙂 Aiva xx
Very tragic: I heard about this and the handful of plane crashes the world has had in just the past two months, and it’s just terrible. I don’t know what’s going on in the air these days, but it definitely puts me on edge to fly soon…my heart goes out to the lives lost 😔
Thanks for stopping by, Rebecca. Yes… I think this one was the third crash of a commercial airliner around the world in barely two months. It puts me on edge about flying, too.
Our eldest daughter in Wichita texted me immediately upon hearing this horrific news! And of course, her fear was that she might know someone. Ended up she didn’t know them but knew those who did. A pretty dark moment for friends and family and our prayers go out to each of them. I cannot imagine!
Plane crashes are always terrible because of the sheer number of casualties in one moment. The older one gets the more poignant it is to hear of young lives lost, missing out on the life stages I have been lucky enough to enjoy.
A Festive and Unique Holiday Gift Wrapping Technique
This holiday season, I undertook a creative quest to spice up my gift wrapping routine. I had become uninspired by traditional holiday gift wrapping techniques. Searching for a box big enough to contain my gift and then wrapping it in holiday-themed wrapping paper wasn’t bringing me as much joy as in the past. And much to my disdain, I’d been noticing more and more that some gift givers take the easy way out and simply drop their gift into a holiday-themed paper bag. .. possibly the most mundane, unimaginative, and uninspired gift wrapping technique of our time!
After some experimentation, I discovered that a little bit of tissue paper and ribbon can go a long way, creating a stunning conversation piece that gift recipients may be hesitant to unwrap! Tissue paper works well because it is not as stiff as traditional wrapping paper, allowing for the creation of beautiful designs.
Image featured above: The eye-popping end result of my gift wrapping experiment. I found it pleasantly serendipitous that the look is reminiscent of the holiday flower known as a “Poinsettia.” More on that lovely flower later on in the post!
I think I will keep these two for a holiday centerpiece!
Now, I’ll demonstrate step by step this festive and unique gift wrapping technique. I found that it works best for gifts that are cylindrical or spherical in nature, for example, wine and liquor bottles, candles, snow globes, mugs, etc. It also works well for smaller boxes.
Step 1: Gather supplies. You will need tissue paper, ribbon, and a pair of scissors. Choose whatever tissue paper colors suit your fancy. I celebrate Christmas so have chosen red and green. The key is that the colors are meaningful to you and the gift recipient!
Step 1: Gather supplies.
Step 2: Gather gifts for wrapping. I plan to wrap a bottle of wine and two candles.
Step 2: Gather gifts for wrapping.
Step 3: Lay out the tissue paper for wrapping your gift on a hard and even surface such as a table, countertop, or kitchen island. You will need two pieces of paper. For a larger gift like a bottle of wine, unfold the pieces of paper completely. For a smaller gift, fold the pieces of paper in half. Arrange the paper, one piece on top of the other, in the shape of an eight-pointed star. This will yield a floral-inspired eye-catching end result.
Step 3: Lay out the tissue paper on a hard and even surface in the shape of an eight-pointed star.
Note that for larger and taller gifts like a bottle of wine, you will need to cover the top with an additional piece of tissue paper. This is necessary to keep the item completely covered. Pull the points of the paper down and around the item in the same direction.
For larger and taller gifts, cover the top of the gift with an additional piece of tissue paper.
Step 4: Pull upward each of the eight points of the tissue paper.
Step 4: Pull upward each of the eight points of the tissue paper.
After pulling up all eight points, your gift will look something like this.
How the wrapping will appear after pulling up all eight points of the paper.
Step 5: Now is the time to add ribbon! Cut a piece of ribbon long enough to yield the look that you desire. For a longer and curlier ribbon, up to three feet of ribbon may be necessary. Pull the ribbon around the gift and tie it in a knot.
Step 5: Add ribbon. Pull the ribbon around the gift and tie it in a knot.
Step 6: To add the finishing touch, curl the ribbon. To curl the ribbon, place one of the blades of a pair of scissors against the bottom side of the ribbon. Pull the scissors gently toward you in a downward motion. Keep the pressure consistent and take care not to cut yourself. The gentle, downward motion should prevent unwanted cuts.
Step 6: Curl the ribbon. Above left: I used a pair of scissors that can be taken apart into two separate blades. However, a normal pair of scissors will also work. Simply hold the scissors open and draw one of the blades against the bottom side of the ribbon. Above right: A three-foot piece of ribbon yields springy and curly tendrils.
And voilà! Now is the time to admire the final result!
Large gift (wine bottle) from above.
Small gift (two candles) from above.
Both gifts side by side. And who says you have to give them away? They make a lovely holiday centerpiece!
And one last one… so many great photo ops! It’s hard to choose just a few.
I’ll close this post with some fun facts about the holiday flower commonly known as a “Poinsettia.” The plant is indigenous to Central America and Mexico and dates back to the time of the Aztecs. The plant came to be known in Spanish as “La Flor de Nochebuena,” or the “Christmas Eve Flower.” It was first brought to the United States in the early nineteenth century by Joel Roberts Poinsett, who was the US minister to Mexico at the time. The name “Poinsettia” is derived from Poinsett’s last name. Other names for the Poinsettia include “Christmas Star” and “lobster plant.”
Poinsettias for sale at my local grocery store. I was pleasantly surprised to find that the look of my wrapped gifts was reminiscent of a Poinsettia. How serendipitous!
I wish you Happy Holidays and a happy, healthy, and prosperous 2025!
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17 thoughts on “A Festive and Unique Holiday Gift Wrapping Technique”
Well done! Moreover, it is impossible to guess the gift from its outer shape. Happy Holidays to you too! 🎄🎀
Well, you chose the colours of the Portuguese flag, so that’s a good start, and I happen to have a poinsettia tree on my patio so you’re on a winner. I have to admit to being one of those lazy, boring people, Carolyn, but in my defence my gifts are usually small and oddly shaped, and they have to travel to the UK in hand luggage. In my hotel room I pop them in bags. A very happy Christmas to you and your family and very best wishes for next year.
The Portuguese flag! Bonus 👍 And wow… a poinsettia tree! I don’t think I’ve ever seen one of those. I agree… those bags do indeed serve a useful purpose at times 😊 Thank you so much for the Christmas wishes!
Spoiler- it will make a brief appearance on Christmas Day. Have a lovely one!
Yay! I’ll keep an eye out for it. Merry Christmas to you and yours!
I’m not the greatest when it comes to wrapping gifts, although I’m okay as long as the gift is box-shape, haha! These gift wrapping shapes look gorgeous, though: they’re like gifts in themselves! A lovely piece of art that I’m sure your family will appreciate. Happy holidays!
I hate gift bags. Talk about zero effort!! Love your poinsettia inspired gift wrap! It’s such a creative way to wrap awkward gifts and it adds a different dimension compared to the standard boxes. Wishing you a happy holidays as well! Cheers! Linda
Solidarity, Sister! 🤣🎁Thank you so much for your kind comments. Different dimension… I like that! I wish you and your family many wonderful wanderings and adventures in the new year!
In this photo I took in Vail, Colorado, USA in July 2024, an aspen tree and Whitaker Wind Sculpture meld together in a seamless and organic way. I like how the bean-like features of the copper “Double Helix Horizontal” wind sculpture do double-duty as the “eyes” of the aspen tree’s chalky white trunk. The dark and distinctive eye-like markings characteristic of the aspen tree are created when the branches fall from the tree as it grows. I took many photos and this one was my favorite. The bean at the top of the sculpture lines up perfectly with one of the tree’s eyes, taking on the role of the eye itself.
A “Double Helix Horizontal” Whitaker Wind Sculpture melds together with an aspen tree, assuming the role of the tree’s “eyes.” Two other wind sculptures are visible in the photo as well, one on the far left and the other to the right of the “Double Helix Horizontal.”
And a cropped closeup of the original photo.
I first discovered Lyman Whitaker’s wind sculptures over a decade ago when I was wandering the countless art galleries on Santa Fe, New Mexico’s whimsical Canyon Road. I’ll never forget the moment a tiny forest of the spinning wind-powered sculptures emerged before me on the grounds of the Wiford Gallery, stopping me in my tracks. The mesmerizing movement put me in a momentary trance. I was simply captivated and enthralled… I’d never seen anything like it before!
Since that day in Santa Fe, I’ve happened upon Lyman Whitaker’s wind sculptures in lots of places, from the yards of friends to galleries in the USA and abroad. The Utah-based sculptor’s work extends far beyond the West and Southwest of the USA, available in art galleries in 12 different US states, Canada, and Europe. So I was not surprised that day in Vail when one popped up at Vail Village Arts. Once again, I was enthralled, but this time, not just by the sculpture itself, but by the spellbinding way it melded with the nature around it. I couldn’t resist the photo op. Some day soon, I hope to take a Whitaker Wind Sculpture home to my yard!
I am not affiliated with Lyman Whitaker nor the art galleries mentioned in this post.
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8 thoughts on “Monochrome Monday Nature-Art Meld”
Really cool! Your black and white photos make the art even more dramatic! I’ve not heard of Lyman Whitaker’s work, but a quick Google shows some fascinating pieces he’s made! Thanks for sharing 🙂
Beautiful capture. I love the balance between art and nature and the black and white really suits the picture. Thanks for sharing the links for Lyman Whitaker’s work. So lovely. I wouldn’t mind having one of his wind sculptures in my yard either!!
Thank you so much! I’m so fortunate I stumbled upon this photo op. It was such a one-of-a-kind opportunity, everything coming together for a great shot. And I’m so happy I was able to introduce you to Lyman Whitaker’s work!
As this is my first time hearing about Lyman Whitaker, I had to use Google to look him up and I am so glad I did! I love his beautiful wind sculptures – I can only imagine how mesmerising it must be to watch the rotation in a breeze! Thanks for sharing, and have a good day 🙂 Aiva xx
I am so happy I was able to share Lyman Whitaker’s work with you! Hopefully, his work will pop up more places in Europe and you can experience it in person one day. Thank you so much for stopping by! Have a great rest of the weekend 🙂
Thursday Doors on Makančeva Street, Zagreb, Croatia
One of the most memorable times in my life to date was living in Zagreb, Croatia for six months while my husband and I pursued research projects in the Croatian capital. It was also a cherished opportunity to reconnect with family in the country. We were fortunate to live in Zagreb’s city center in an apartment on Makančeva Ulica, a quiet residential street within walking distance of the main square and on two tram lines. In this post, I relive that memorable time through the lens of the Thursday Doors* weekly photo challenge.
Image featured above: Street sign on Makančeva Ulica. “Ulica” is Croatian for “street,” pronounced oo-lee-tzuh in English.
Croatian language tip: The Croatian language has several consonants with a diacritical mark above them in the shape of a “v.” A useful tip for pronouncing these in English is to remove the mark and add an “h.” For example, the “č” in Makančeva is pronounced like “ch” in English… Makancheva!
Our building and neighborhood were constructed between the two world wars – a time referred to as the Interwar period – in the Bauhaus-inspired architectural style popular in Europe at that time. The Bauhaus style originated in Germany, with the term Bauhaus derived from the German word “hausbau,” or “building of a house.” In keeping with the elementary German meaning, Bauhaus architecture is minimalist in nature with a focus onfunctionality. Little to no ornamental and decorative elements are present, with clean lines and basic geometric shapes, often rectangles, emerging as distinctive design elements all on their own.
My husband and I arrived in Zagreb on a cold, dank, and dreary February day. I must admit, when we pulled up to our building on Makančeva Ulica for the very first time, I was wondering just what had we gotten ourselves into! The building’s facade appeared worn and a bit dirty. Buildings inspired by the Bauhaus style do not accommodate dirt and grime well as there is no ornamentation to detract from it. And grey skies are not complementary!
The facade and front door to our building on Makančeva Ulica, constructed in a minimalist Bauhaus-inspired style. An antique East German Trabant (commonly referred to as a “Trabby”) is parked in front, also minimalist in its design. The owner kept the car as a collector’s item. Nowadays, the German automobile brands you’re likely to find around Zagreb are Mercedes-Benz, Audi, BMW, and Volkswagen.
However, after taking that initial tentative step through the front door, my fears were allayed a bit. While outside the building needed a bit of work, inside our apartment was renovated and modern. This is often the case with buildings and apartments in Zagreb. It can be challenging to arrange funds for exterior maintenance, the responsibility of which rests with building residents. Not everyone may be willing or able to participate.
Me in the doorway to our building. The distinctly linear and rectangular windows in the door – and the rectangular shape of door itself – are typical of the Bauhaus style. Also typical is that just a smattering of decorative elements is visible in the trim around the door and basement windows, consisting of tiny horizontal and vertical lines. The trim blends in so much that I did not realize it was there until I looked at my photos!
Due to the Bauhaus focus on functionality – a purpose useful and accessible to many – buildings inspired by this style were mass produced. In fact, in my wanderings around the neighborhood, I stumbled upon a building on a nearby street that was almost an exact replica of the building on Makančeva Ulica.
A building on a nearby street, almost an exact replica of the building on Makančeva Ulica. However, the residents of this building have done a much better job on exterior maintenance, so well that the Bauhaus-inspired design elements can be seen and appreciated, set against bright and fresh paint from which they stand out. The windows and balconies are basic rectangles, each side composed of a clean line. And they are laid out on each story in a linear manner, both horizontally and vertically. Sleek and simple parallel lines add just a little detail to the ground level. The door is distinctly rectangular, surrounded by an equally rectangular casing. Overall, the image created is pleasing to the eye.
For added perspective, below are the two buildings side by side. A little maintenance makes a big difference!
On the left is the building on Makančeva Ulica. On the right is a similar building nearby, with a well-maintained exterior. And while these buildings look strikingly similar, there are a couple slight differences. Can you tell what they are?
Makančeva Ulica is bounded on the south by Ulica Kralja Zvonimira, or King Zvonimir’s Street. The street is one of the main thoroughfares in the neighborhood. In contrast to quiet residential streets, the buildings on King Zvonimir’s Street have shops and businesses on the ground floor, with private residences above. Like on Makančeva, the Bauhaus-inspired architectural style is prominent throughout.
King Zvonimir’s Street. My husband and I preferred to walk places so spent a lot of time walking up and down this street. While most of the buildings are fairly uniform in their appearance, I particularly liked the narrower cube-like building in the middle of the photo on the left side of the street, with the rectangular windows wrapping around the corner. Wrap around windows are one of the more “fancier” traits of the Bauhaus style, as are cube-shaped buildings.
The west end of King Zvonimir’s Street culminates in one of Zagreb’s more unique squares, Trg Žrtava Fašizma, or Victims of Fascism Square. Featured on this square was a quirky art installation made up of a retired gondola car from the Sljeme Peak žičara (ski lift) on Medvednica Mountain behind Zagreb. The car includes a retro-looking door, dating back to when the lift opened in 1963! The lift closed in 2007 to make way for the construction of a modern state-of-the-art version, which made its first trip up the mountain in 2022.
Retired gondola car art installation. I like how its blue shade is almost the same shade of blue as the tram passing by in the background. The bright blue colors provide a welcome contrast on a gloomy day. The apartments in the background are some of the more desirable real estate in Zagreb, ideally situated on a corner with a view of the square. The buildings at this enviable location have a little more detail and variation within the Bauhaus style than the buildings on the side streets.
The gondola car art installation from another perspective… creepy! I feel like it’s going to start crawling up on me! The circular Meštrović Pavilion is in the background, designed by Croatian sculptor and architect Ivan Meštrović. Meštrović’s work can be found all over Zagreb, across Croatia, in Europe, and in the USA. But that’s all I will say about Meštrović for now! Stay tuned for a future post.
A five minute walk to the northwest of Makančeva Ulica is Kvatrić Market,whose door – or rather, entrance – I passed through at least every other day. The outdoor market was my favorite destination for fresh lettuce, tomatoes, and green onions.
The “door” to Kvatrić Market. The cute little red, white, and blue umbrella on the sign is the logo for Zagreb’s outdoor markets. To the left of the door is a stall selling local farm raised chicken, and to the right a newspaper stand. A family cools off at a water fountain in the foreground. In the background are stalls selling fruits, vegetables, and more.
The vendors at the market were patient with my basic (at best!) Croatian language skills. After I’d been shopping there for three weeks, one of them asked if I was a member of the diplomatic corps. I was so flattered! And while technically I was not a diplomat, we are all diplomats and ambassadors of a sort when we live and travel abroad. For how we conduct ourselves in the country we are in reflects back on the country we are from.
Vendors and shoppers at Kvatrić Market on a bright summer day, under the shade of the red umbrellas characteristic of Zagreb’s outdoor markets.
And finally, a photo of Makančeva Ulica in the summer, with a bright blue sky and leafy green trees. Such a contrast from when we arrived in February. Makančeva, I miss you!
Makančeva Ulica in the summer.
*Thursday Doors is a weekly photo challenge hosted by Dan Antion on his blog No Facilities. Dan encourages door and architecture lovers throughout the world to create posts of doors and architecture photographed on their travels. Please visit the following link to learn how to participate: https://nofacilities.com/category/thursday-doors/.
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21 thoughts on “Thursday Doors on Makančeva Street, Zagreb, Croatia”
Thanks for sharing a very interesting post. I love learning about other cities and architectural design elements. Of the two buildings, I noticed a different number of panes in the windows and a touch of decoration above the first floor of the building on the right. I little bit goes a long way. I liked the cable car sculpture.
Good eye! The building on the right is also one story higher than the one on the left, and has fewer windows on the ground floor. Thank you so much for stopping by!
It’s pretty amazing that you were able to live in Croatia for six months and reconnect with family. The minimalist Bauhaus architecture style is interesting. And you’re absolutely right how a bit of colour or maintenance can make a huge difference to an otherwise simple looking building. The gondola car art installation totally looks like a metal spider! It reminds me of the Maman spider sculpture we have outside the National Gallery of Canada in Ottawa.
Wow! I just checked out the Maman spider sculpture. Equally amazing as it is creepy 🤣 Thank you so much for taking the time to stop by! It means a lot.
That Trabant made me smile. In Krakow you could take a tour of Nowa Huta in one. We were recommended to, but never did. The brutalist Soviet style of architecture never appealed much but the inside can be very different. A Polish niece recently bought an old style apartment in Warsawa to remodel. It will be a sound investment. I enjoyed seeing some of Zagreb with you. A talented photographer, Paula, runs a blog called Lost in Translation and lives and works there.
Thank you, Jo, for stopping by! Always great to see you. And thanks for the info about the Lost in Translation blog! I’ll check that out soon. I’m glad the Trabant made you smile. They are sort of charming in their uniqueness. Good luck to your niece with her remodel! I’m sure it will be an adventure and very worth it. I wish I could do the same in Croatia somewhere. Maybe one day!
This is such an interesting post. There are many similar buildings all over Latvia and the Baltic states. The rebirth of independent Latvia gave a new impetus to construction. Initially, the earlier historicist trends were continued. This changed soon and the most productive decade of interwar architecture was heavily influenced by the Art Deco style and the Bauhaus movement. Sadly, it saw a reduction in architectural detail. But while no more bas-reliefs or statues were adorning the facades there were still many large over-arching architectural motives that made the architecture of this period somewhat attractive. Thanks for sharing, and have a good day 🙂 Aiva xx
Thanks, Aiva, for your thoughtful (as always😊) comment! That’s fascinating that you have similar architecture in Latvia and the Baltic states from that time period. I’ve found when I travel around Europe that I see it in many cities. I’ll say to my husband… are we in Zagreb??? Have a wonderful weekend!
Thank you for stopping by and for your kind comments! Croatia is a fascinating place to visit. The coast is of course always beautiful but Zagreb is wonderful as well, and highly underrated. I hope you can make it to Croatia one day!
You had lots of interesting info in this post. I enjoyed it and now I’m curious if the tenants decorated indoors with the same simplicity. I agree with your statement about how we conduct ourselves. That’s wisdom many could use no matter where they live! Nice post! Sorry I’m so behind.
Thank you so much for taking the time to stop by! No worries on being behind… it sounds like you’ve had a lot on your plate! The apartment I lived in had a sort of simplistic modern aesthetic going on, kind of minimalist yet classy at the same time. So in a way, it did reflect the simplicity of the building’s exterior.
Those buildings remind me so much of my hometown in Italy, with the wooden “blinds” that are rolled down at night (dont know the name in English because they do not exist here!!!!).
Thank you so much for stopping by! My husband says the Croatian word for those blinds is “roleta.” It’s amazing how similar the buildings are in Italy. I remember wandering around neighborhoods in Rome and thinking it looked like it could be Zagreb. Thanks again for commenting 😊
When I booked my stay at the Palmer House Hotel for a trip to Chicago, Illinois, USA this past April, I was not anticipating a Thursday Doors post about the hotel itself. Yet, the opportunity presented itself, so I seized it! I should not have been surprised. The city of Chicago is an architecture lover’s dream, boasting a breadth of architectural styles from Neo-Classical to Neo-Gothic, Art Deco to Midcentury Modern, towering skyscrapers, and more.
The Palmer House is conveniently located at 17 East Monroe Street in Chicago’s historic “Loop” or city center. It is within walking distance of attractions such as the Art Institute, Millennium Park, Navy Pier, the Magnificent Mile, and the Chicago River, among others.
Image featured above: The main entrance to the Palmer House on East Monroe Street, featuring gilded bronze doors and a gleaming marquee that is visible for blocks on even the brightest of days. Neo-Classical details such as columns are evident in the frieze that adorns the marquee.
The Palmer House had elaborate beginnings in 1870 as a wedding present from dry goods merchant turned real estate developer Potter Palmer to his much younger wife, Bertha Honoré Palmer. Bertha Palmer possessed an extensive knowledge of architecture and design and was a true partner to her husband in his endeavors, including the design of the Palmer House.
Tragically, the Palmer House burned down in 1871 during the Great Chicago Fire. The hotel was rebuilt at the intersection of State and Monroe Streets in 1873.* However, as the city of Chicago grew into the second largest city in the United States – becoming a hub for immigration, the railroad, manufacturing, commerce, and trade – consumer demand for hotels grew as well, necessitating a complete demolition and expansive rebuild of the hotel at the same location from 1925-1927.* The renowned Chicago architectural firm Holabird and Roche (which later became Holabird and Root) was tapped to lead the design and rebuild of the hotel, constructing it in a Neo-Classical style with a massive 25 stories extending across one city block. It is this iteration of the hotel that endures to this day.
*In my research for this post, I encountered slight variance in dates relating to the Palmer House’s history.
The Palmer House was sold to hotelier Conrad Hilton in 1945, when it became the Palmer House Hilton and one of the flagship hotels of the prestigious Hilton Hotel chain. While it was sold to a private equity company in 2005, it continues to be managed by Hilton Hotels & Resorts and now carries the moniker “Palmer House… A Hilton Hotel.” As a testament to the hotel’s continued popularity and longevity, it remains the second-largest hotel in the city of Chicago with over 1,600 guest rooms.
After passing through the gilded bronze doors of the Palmer House’s main entrance, guests are greeted by The Peacock Door. Designed by Louis Comfort Tiffany, the door’s two panels consist of solid bronze and depict two peacocks in profile. The door once resided in esteemed jeweler C.D. Peacock’s House of Peacock fine jewelry store, which was located on the first floor of the Palmer House for much of the twentieth century. Gilded bronze window panels from the former storefront flank the door. The complete ensemble is topped by the dark green marble once characteristic of the House of Peacock’s interior walls.
The Peacock Door, designed by Louis Comfort Tiffany. While The Peacock Door did not appear until the third and current iteration of the Palmer House, Tiffany lamps and sconces adorned the lobby and walls of the hotel’s second iteration. Bertha Palmer was a fan of Tiffany’s work.
Closeup of the left and right panels of The Peacock Door. The peacock theme is carried throughout the hotel in its carpets and room keys.
Travertine marble staircases usher guests from the foyer of the hotel’s main entrance up to the sumptuous two-story lobby, a textbook example of Neo-Classical design. The lobby takes my breath away every time I enter it. I can’t help but feel as though I’m being transported back in time to another era, perhaps to the Gilded Age when Neo-Classism was one of the coveted architectural styles. I find myself thinking, they just don’t make them like this anymore!
The hotel lobby, replete with Neo-Classical details. First, the room is perfectly symmetrical, and not just in its dimensions. Note the symmetry in the 1) opposing pillars supporting the ceiling, 2) gilded bronze sconces and torchiers, and 3) columns, windows, sconces, and torchiers flanking the staircase and door to The Empire Room at the north end of the lobby. Second, the ceiling’s mural exhibits Neo-Classical traits such as geometric shapes and an allegorical theme (I was unable to determine the subject of the allegory). Finally, the marble walls, crown molding, and gilded ornamentation complete the grandeur synonymous with Neo-Classical design.
The grand entrance to The Empire Room, including its door, serves as the lobby’s focal point. The Empire Room was a mainstay on Chicago’s nightclub scene from 1932 to 1976 and is now used for conferences and events.
The door to The Empire Room. The perfectly symmetrical marble columns are finished with gold leaf capitals.
Broad view of the door to The Empire Room. The peacock theme is visible on the carpet. And a fun fact from popular culture… this door was featured on one episode of the Showtime comedy-drama series Shameless, which was set in Chicago. In the episode, the character Debbie Gallagher is seen rushing up the stairs to The Empire Room clad in an evening gown, on her way to a dance.
During its years as a nightclub, The Empire Room featured many of the iconic entertainers of the day.
A handful of the entertainers who performed at The Empire Room, often returning multiple times, from left to right: George Burns (as a young man! In my mind’s eye he’s always old with round-rimmed glasses. But his characteristic cigar is already present!), Tony Bennett, and Sonny & Cher. Photos are courtesy of the Palmer House.
The opulence, grandeur, and history of the hotel extends to the its elevator doors as well. The Palmer House was the first hotel in Chicago to incorporate an elevator into its design.
Two of the gilded elevator doors in the massive elevator bank behind the south side of the lobby. Due to the hotel’s extensive size, the cars go to different floors, so guests must pay attention to the floor indicators before boarding. These cars go up to floor 8 and then on to floors 18-23.
Westinghouse Selectomatic elevator car floor tracker dating back to the 1950s. While it is no longer in use, it serves as a both an artifact and contemporary link to the Palmer House’s extensive history.Elevator bank on the floor where my husband and I stayed. While these elevator doors aren’t quite as grand as those in the lobby, the gilded bronze mirrors, ornamentation above the doors, crown molding, and marble mosaic flooring is all in keeping with the hotel’s Neo-Classical style.
Guests whose hotel rooms face State Street have a view of Chicago’s elevated train, commonly referred to as the “L.” If it is possible for a form of public transportation to be beloved, Chicago’s “L” is it. Its elevated tracks and rattling sound as it passes are two of the defining characteristics of Chicago’s Loop District. Like a loyal friend, it snakes through the Loop approximately once every three minutes.
Chicago’s “L” train and its elevated tracks, with the Palmer House in the background. And we mustn’t forget those doors! The doors of the “L” are visible, as are the doors leading to the fire escapes on the Palmer House’s lower levels. Two of the Palmer House’s massive red brick towers rise up above its limestone lower floors.
The Palmer House has had the honor of hosting many esteemed guests over the years. More recently in the early 2000s, my husband spotted Hollywood actor Gene Hackman in the lobby.
34th US President Dwight D. Eisenhower and First Lady Mamie Eisenhower arriving at the hotel in the 1950s, greeted by the general manager. Photo is courtesy of the Palmer House Hotel.
Prince Charles arriving at the hotel in 1977, accompanied by Chicago’s mayor. Photo is courtesy of the Palmer House Hotel.
I’ll close this post with a fun snapshot of the hotel’s room key, featuring peacock feathers and the hotel’s twenty-first century moniker.
Thursday Doors is a weekly photo challenge hosted by Dan Antion on his blog No Facilities. Dan encourages door and architecture lovers throughout the world to create posts of doors and architecture photographed on their travels. Please visit the following web link to learn how to participate: https://nofacilities.com/category/thursday-doors/.
Enjoy what you’ve read? Subscribe to my blog by entering your email address below. It is an honor to share my experiences with you!
38 thoughts on “Thursday Doors at the Palmer House Hotel”
Thank you for presenting this lovely tour. Chicago is a wonderful city for studying architecture and for capturing doors of all designs. It’s hard to choose a favorite photo, but The Peacock Door is my favorite door. It’s a work of art, and I love the way they incorporated the design throughout the hotel. Wonderful photos from a grand city.
Thank you, also, for including the history. I enjoy learning about the history of buildings, and this one certainly has an interesting past.
Thank you for your thoughtful comment! I can’t wait to go back to Chicago and explore its architecture in much greater detail. And thanks for the shoutout about history. I enjoy providing that additional context. It makes things extra meaningful!
I’ve been there!!! I was smitten with the Palmer House peacock doors and I thank you for your inside pictures. A beautiful building in a beautiful city.
Thank you for this! I grew up near Chicago and lived in the Loop for a while. It’s been many years since I’ve walked through those Palmer House doors, but I have done so, and it was a joy to do it again with your blog post. Yes, they don’t build them like this anymore!
What interesting history on the Palmer house. Wow… that peacock door is amazing! The whole place looks fabulous. I bet you really enjoyed staying there!
This is definitely one I’ll share on my Pinterest board of Thursday Doors!
Thank you so much for your support and the kind words! I’m truly honored that you’re planning to share my post on your Pinterest Thursday Doors board! And yes… it was a great experience staying at the Palmer House… such a unique place and a welcome change from most hotels, which tend to all kind of be the same.
We visited Chicago about a decade ago. You’re absolutely right about how the architecture there is top notch. Great shots of the Palmer House. It was also neat to learn more about its history. The peacock door is splendid!
Thank you so much for taking the time to check out my blog! I’m amazed by how Chicago’s architecture continues to evolve, beginning in the mid-19th century and continuing through the present day, with a wide range of styles. The city is a true gem in many ways.
What a gorgeous hotel with a fascinating history! Chicago is one city I haven’t visited yet, and it’s at the top of my bucket list to check out in the US. Thanks for taking us along your visit (and looks like you got yourself a new follower)! 🙂
Thank you so much for taking the time to check out my blog and to follow! That means a lot 😊 I think you’d have a great time in Chicago… the history, architecture, museums, neighborhoods, and restaurants are exceptional!
What a beautiful hotel! And what a wonderful description you have written educating me about it. Dad enjoyed it too. He has stayed there. Love you, Mom
A fabulous post and a rather opulent hotel. Those peacock doors are outstanding. A beautiful building with some amazing features. Even the mirrors beside the lifts are special.
That’s a beautiful hotel – I love its classic and historic elegance and the Peacock Doors at the Palmer House are a stunning example of craftsmanship and artistic design – the feature of a peacock motif, with vibrant colours and detailed carvings depicting peacock feathers, is simply stunning. Thanks for sharing, and have a good day 🙂 Aiva xx
I stayed at the Palmer house as a child in the early 1950’s. There is a photo of me and my sister in what was called the Princess Elevator. It was called that because an English princess had ridden in it. I think Princess Anne.
Do you have any knowledge/information as to whether it was the Palmer House?
Fascinating! I’ll revisit my research (I have two dozen pages of it) on the hotel and let you know. I would not be surprised if they once had the elevator you are asking about. I do remember from my research that the Palmer House was the first hotel in Chicago to have an elevator. And so many dignitaries and celebrities stayed there over time. Thank you so much for stopping by! And stay tuned…
Dreaming of Croatia’s tranquil, crystal-clear waters and remote, one-of-a-kind beaches but don’t want to spend your entire vacation confined to a boat? Tired of touristy excursions to overcrowded beaches and gimmicky attractions? Consider hiring your very own skipper and boat for the day.
Image featured above: The waters of the aptly named “Blue Lagoon” on the rustic and uninhabited island of Veli Budikovac, not far from the island of Vis.
Such a nautical adventure had been on my family’s bucket list for years. We checked it off on the island of Vis, located in the Adriatic Sea in Croatia’s Dalmatia region and the farthest inhabited island from the Croatian coast. We chose Vis for our bucket list experience because it is an ideal place to explore by boat. The island boasts a diverse array of beaches and sea caves, many of which are only accessible from the sea. And there is a scattering of tiny, uninhabited islands nearby. While we chose the island of Vis for this experience, it would be possible and worthwhile anywhere in Croatia’s coastal Dalmatia region.
My husband, sister- and brother-in-law, niece and nephew on the “Tonka,” the motorboat we rented for the day. Our skipper is visible in the background, chatting with another skipper on the dock. It’s always easy to spot the skippers, traditionally clad in white polo shirts. We’re docked at Veli Budikovac.
Why hire a skipper and boat?
The experience is your very own, and in two different ways. First, only you and your loved ones are on the boat. You do not have to contend with other tourists and people you do not know. It is a bonding experience and a chance to relax and have fun together. Second, you set the agenda. You tell the skipper where you want to go, and the skipper takes you there. You are not bound to a schedule, so no hurrying from one place to another (unless you want to!). And if you do not know much about the area, don’t worry… the skipper has tons of knowledge and can suggest places to check out. All of this combines to create a veritable bucket list boating day, a unique, magical experience you and your family will remember forever.
How to Hire a Skipper and Boat
Day trips with a private skipper and boat can be arranged upon arrival in Croatia. Tourist agencies in coastal and island towns often have harbor front kiosks where it is possible to arrange a variety of nautical excursions. These companies typically push touristy group excursions and do not advertise the option of hiring a private skipper and boat. You, the customer, must request this option. They will be happy to arrange it for you, but for a price. In my family’s case, they arranged for a skipper and boat that would normally have taken a group of tourists out for the day. The price was stated in the local currency and payable in cash only. The cost was 600 Euros (around 640 US dollars or 518 British pounds) for our group of four adults and two children, and they were unwilling to negotiate on the price. We were also required to provide lunch for the skipper, and advised to make a lunch reservation ahead of time if we did not wish to eat on the boat.
The harbor front in the town of Komiža on the island of Vis, including the kiosk where we arranged for our private skipper and boat. The motorboat we rented is visible behind the kiosk. Kiosks offering excursions line the entire length of the harbor front.
Preferred Payment Methods in Croatia
It is important to note that in Croatia, cash is not only preferred, but oftentimes the required method of payment. Credit cards are often not accepted. When I travel to Croatia, I bring my ATM card and withdraw cash throughout the trip as I need it. I take along some cash that I set aside to exchange for local currency in an emergency. I also bring my credit card, but typically only use it in fine dining establishments.
What to Expect on Your Bucket List Boating Day
We met our skipper on Komiža’s harbor front and boarded the boat around 9:00 AM. We wore swimsuits and cover ups and brought along water, snacks, towels, sunscreen, sunglasses, hats, cameras and phones, cash and credit cards for lunch, and a change of clothes. The skipper began by asking us what our goals were for the day. After years of exploring the beaches on the island of Vis from land, our primary goal was to visit beaches and sea caves inaccessible from land. We also looked forward to experiencing some of the beaches we’d been to in the past from a new vantage point, approaching them from the sea instead. Another subject discussed was the plan for lunch. More on that later on in the post!
Our first stop of the day was at a sea cave with an unusual pants-like formation in its center. Another group beat us there, so we hung out on the boat and took photos.
Sea cave with a pants-like formation in the center. Croatia’s Dalmatia region is teeming with caves. The karst limestone typical of the area is porous and brittle, eroding over time to create caves.
Next, we proceeded to Mala Pritiščina Beach, located in a tiny cove only accessible from the sea. We had in fact been to the beach once before, albeit after a requisite ten to fifteen minute swim from its big sister, nearby Pritiščina Beach. It was much more convenient to simply jump off the boat. And bonus, we were the only ones there!
Me soaking up the beauty and solitude of Mala Pritiščina Beach. The water was mesmerizing, both in color and clarity.
Hanging out on a slab of karst limestone at Mala Pritiščina Beach. On the lower right is a smattering of pebbles where it is also possible to sit and relax. My sister-in-law and her family live in Dalmatia and spend a lot of time in the sun. You can tell who doesn’t live there… my husband with his pasty white skin!
Soon other boats began arriving, a sign that it was time to motor on to our next destination.
Saying goodbye to Mala Pritiščina.
Snack time! The kids donned cute wearable towel cover ups after returning to the boat. What a brilliant concept!
Our next stop was a sea cave with pink pebbles and dark blue water that was strikingly dense and gelatinous in appearance, an illusion created by the way the sun reflects off the sea bed near the cave. We had the cave all to ourselves, so took our time swimming and exploring.
My brother-in-law, niece and nephew swimming at the cave’s entrance. The skipper pointed out to us that due to the way the sun reflects off the sea bed, when submerged in the water our skin took on a blue hue.
The gelatinous blue waters around the cave. A narrow and dark fissure in the sea bed is visible on the mid-to-lower left.
Exploring the cave. My niece is trying to balance while walking. The pebbles and rough stone were somewhat challenging to walk on in bare feet.
Next on deck was Stiniva Beach. The beach is arguably one of the most dramatic in all of Croatia, in a cove surrounded and protected by towering limestone cliffs with only a narrow channel connecting it to the open sea. When I float on my back in the waters of Stiniva Beach and gaze upward, the cliffs remind me of the soaring walls of a Gothic cathedral.
A peaceful morning at Stiniva Beach.
We had visited Stiniva Beach in the past, approaching it from land by a challenging hike down a steep and rocky cliff face. Due to the various changes in altitude, the land approach permits for spectacular views. We were curious to discover if the beach was equally spectacular upon approach from sea.
Stiniva Beach from land……and Stiniva Beach from sea.
From sea, the lofty limestone cliffs stood like two sentries guarding the narrow channel to the cove and beach. We found the land approach more spectacular than the one from sea, as the hike down the cliff face permits for amazingly breathtaking views. Which approach do you like best?
After more than half a day of sun and sea, we worked up a ravenous appetite. We’d made a lunch reservation at the highly acclaimed Konoba Budikovac, a restaurant owned and operated by a retired sea captain and the only service on the uninhabited island of Veli Budikovac. Earlier that day, when we first met our skipper he informed us that the captain occasionally closes the restaurant the morning of when he needs a break. Our skipper called the captain three hours ahead of time to confirm the restaurant was open, and thankfully, it was!
Approach to the island of Veli Budicovac, across the aptly named waters of its Blue Lagoon. Back in the mid-twentieth century, Yugoslav dictator Josip Broz Tito maintained a vineyard on the island. While the country created by Tito ceased to exist in the early 1990s, his vineyard on the island endures to this day. Tito died in 1980.
Waters of the Blue Lagoon, a popular place for boaters to drop anchor and take a break. A family with a motorized sailboat is visible on the upper right. They were likely spending their entire vacation on the boat, a great way to experience Croatia’s coast if you don’t mind being at sea for days on end!
I must admit, our lunch break at Konoba Budicovac was perhaps my most favorite experience of the day! I am always amazed at how expert Croatians are at creating inviting alfresco dining spaces, transforming the simple act of eating into a divine and memorable experience. The terrace at Konoba Budicovac did not disappoint. It was the perfect place to dine, relax, and recharge.
Terrace at Konoba Budikovac, sheltered from the intense Dalmatian sun by a canopy of trees and a couple umbrellas. It is surrounded by a karst limestone wall adorned with potted geraniums.
View of the Blue Lagoon from the terrace at Konoba Budikovac.
Lunch at Konoba Budikovac is served family style. The cuisine is typical of the Dalmatia region, consisting of fresh fish and meats. To start, we ordered two distinctly different salads, one of fresh tomatoes and capers drizzled in olive oil, the other the Dalmatian specialty octopus salad. Both were seasoned in the traditional Dalmatian way with a little bit of sea salt.
Tomato and caper salad on the left, octopus salad on the right. I must admit, I felt bad eating the octopus salad, as we often see the cute little creatures when we swim in the Adriatic Sea.
Our main course consisted of tuna steaks and the traditional Dalmatian dish pašticada. Pašticada consists of a beef ragu served atop a bed of gnocchi. According to my Dalmatian husband, pašticada has unassuming origins as a homely peasant dish, the purpose of which was to use up every little last bit of leftover red meat. And because there was often not a lot of meat left, gnocchi was served to add sustenance to the meal.
Pašticada and gnocchi. The beef in pašticada can be cut into various sizes, ranging from shaved, to chunks, to slices. The gnocchi deliciously soaks up the flavors of the ragu.
Grilled tuna steaks.
The kiddos enjoyed a spaghetti marinara dish.
Spaghetti marinara for the kids.
After lunch we headed to Smokova Beach, a remote beach we were visiting for the very first time. Like many of the other beaches on the island of Vis, Smokova Beach is only accessible from land by hike. Adding to our desire to visit the beach was that it consists completely of sand, a rarity in Croatia, where the vast majority of beaches are pebble. The island of Vis is unusual in that a few sand beaches can be found, just another quality adding to the true one-of-a-kind nature of the island’s beaches.
Sandy Smokova Beach, one of just a handful of sand beaches in Croatia. We had the beach almost all to ourselves and stayed for a long time. The sand made it easy to stroll the length of the beach and play a game of catch in the shallower depths.
Antique wooden motorboat anchored in the waters at Smokova Beach. It was the only other boat we saw the entire time we were there. Two fishing rods are attached to the boat.
Uncle and niece sharing a light moment at Smokova Beach.
We began our journey back to Komiža in the early evening, after spending about nine hours in the sea and sun. Our active day left us physically exhausted, but in a good way!
father and daugtermother and sonAuntie looking tired and windblown!my husband and I off Srebrna Beach
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16 thoughts on “A Bucket List Boating Day on the Island of Vis”
I enjoyed you sharing your trip with us. What a wonderful time had by all. Janet
Thank you so much for stopping by! The sea caves are so fun to explore. And on the Croatian mainland, they’ve turned some seaside caves into bars and restaurants. Such a unique experience!
Sounds like a fun adventure and a great way to explore the island, especially the sea caves and some of the smaller beaches. I like the sound of having a private boat tour and not having to deal with other tourists. It does sound much more relaxing. Looks like you picked a lovely spot to go for lunch too.
Yes! It was such an amazing day, all around. An ideal way to explore those hard to get to spots around the island. I’ll never forget it! I definitely recommend a private boat tour for anyone traveling to the Croatian coast. Thanks for checking out my blog!
Fabulous, lovely trip!! I’ve never been to Croatia but keep hearing lots of good thing about it. That water looks lovely and the tuna steaks looked delicious btw. 🔆💫
Thank you so, so much for the kind words! I hope you can visit Croatia one day and experience the stunning natural beauty and delicious food. And I hope to visit Greece and Santorini one day! Your posts have got me very, very curious…
Review of Road to Gold Destination Vail 2023 Adult Figure Skating Camp, Part 2: What I Learned
This post is the second in a two-part review of the Road to Gold Destination Vail 2023 adult figure skating camp. Held in Vail, Colorado, USA each summer, the camp features two-time US National Ladies Figure Skating Champion and Olympic Bronze Medalist Gracie Gold. See Part 1 of my review for an overview of the camp, including coach bios, technical details, value added, and a fun curated selection of photos.
All photos in this post were taken by Sam Atagana Photography. I purchased the full collection of camp photos and am posting a selection with the permission of Sam Atagana Photography. The photo captions were written by me.
Photo featured above: Gracie Gold demonstrates proper jump position in her Single Flip & Lutz class in Vail’s Dobson Ice Arena.
Disclaimer: This review is based on my own perceptions and experiences as an attendee of Road to Gold Destination Vail. I am not affiliated with Road to Gold Destination Vail.
I took five classes at Destination Vail 2023. In what follows, I share what I learned in each class. What was the best thing you learned at Destination Vail? Let us know in the Comments section at the end of this post.
The Fundamental Turns & Steps classwas the most entertaining class I took at Destination Vail. The coach of the class, an international competitor in ice dance, is a strikingly charismatic individual with a talent for connecting with and engaging class attendees. His positive energy is contagious, making his classes exceptionally enjoyable and fun.
The goal of the Fundamental Turns & Steps class was to skate a choreographic sequence composed of, you guessed it, different turns and steps. As the name of the class implies, the turns and steps were basic, consisting of a forward pivot, three-turns, C steps, crossovers, and a couple other connecting steps and flourishes. The sequence was taught in three distinct parts, which we then combined and skated to music at the end of the class.
I must extend my heartfelt appreciation to the coach for his infinite patience with the class attendees! We queried him over and over about the different parts of the sequence, as it can be challenging to learn, memorize, and skate a sequence on the spot. The three-time ice dance champion obliged us warmly and without frustration. He did not allow our incessant questions over what certainly must have been to him a simplistic and banal sequence deter his enthusiasm to guide and assist us!
My key takeaway from the class was fascinatingly not about specific turns and steps, but rather the use of the arms to complete and add finishing touches to a choreographic sequence. As the coach put it, “an arm isn’t just an arm.” The arms aren’t simply attached to the body and along for the ride, but rather add depth, dimension, and character to the steps being skated. He encouraged us to include arm movements at key points in the sequence.
The coach demonstrates one of the three sections of the choreographic sequence, including the use of arms. And bonus… at the top of the photo, an off-ice class led by Eddie Shipstad is visible on the patio of the Dobson Ice Arena.
Integrating my arms into the sequence.
And a depiction of the sequence, from start to finish…
Sequence start from forward pivot…… and sequence finish in sideways skid stop.
Prior to attending Eddie Shipstad’s Single Loop & Loop Combinations class I felt like I my loop jump was in a rut, that my confidence to perform the jump had regressed over the past five years. Shipstad helped me find my confidence once again, providing invaluable guidance that made the jump more accessible both physically and mentally. There were several takeaways for me from Shipstad’s class.
First, Shipstad pointed out a common mistake skaters make with the arms during jump takeoff. Skaters often begin bringing the arms in as they start bending the knees before taking off from the ice. Instead, skaters should wait to bring the arms in until the moment they leave the ice. Bringing the arms in and and taking off from the ice should occur simultaneously.
Another common error (and one that Shipstad pointed out to me that I was making) is with the position of the free leg during jump takeoff and the jump itself. That is, skaters often simply lift the free leg up off the ice without also bringing it in and across the takeoff leg. Shipstad shared a couple tips for preventing this mistake. He recommended that when gliding backward into the jump, if the right leg is your takeoff and landing leg, before leaving the ice lean a little to the right and bring the left foot across and a little bit to the right of the right foot. That way, 1) the skater is able to find a more secure backward outside edge for jump takeoff, and 2) the left foot is already in position across the takeoff leg; all the skater must do is lift the foot and pull it in during takeoff from the ice. The result is that the jump should pop straight up into the air to a greater height, and the rotation will be quicker. For skaters who take off from the left leg, the above would be the opposite: lean to the left and bring the right foot across and a little bit to the left of the left foot.
Shipstad guides a skater toward the proper position for loop jump takeoff. The free leg is lifted and pulled in and across the takeoff leg.
I received a great mental boost from Shipstad’s class when I landed a loop jump as the second jump in a combination. Prior to the class, I hadn’t done so since I returned to skating in my forties. Shipstad challenged us to add a single loop jump after another single jump of our choice. He pointed out that we should not feel rushed to complete the loop jump, that one of the beauties of performing the loop as the second jump in a combination is that the skater can wait and collect themselves before taking off from the ice. I did just that, taking the time to set up the jump in the manner Shipstad advised, and I was able to do it! This gave me a huge sense of confidence, as though I had finally begun to overcome a barrier in my mind.
As I wrote in Part 1 of my review, perhaps the camp’s greatest value added was the innovative coaching style. All of the coaches encouraged us to approach our skating from a fresh perspective. It was if they were aware of the skills we were working on at home and built upon those skills in creative ways, taking us in challenging new directions. I found this to be the case in all three of the classes I took from the camp’s star, Gracie Gold.
I must admit I was a little nervous in the days leading up to the camp about taking classes from Gold. I worried I might be so intimidated that I wouldn’t be able to skate my best. This fear vanished right away in the first class I took with her. Gold has a kind, down-to-earth, unbiased, and endearing demeanor that puts class attendees immediately at ease.
Gold connects with attendees of her Flip & Lutz class. She’s wearing an adorable sweater she knitted herself, which only made her demeanor more endearing and approachable.
When I signed up for Gold’s Spirals & Spiral Sequences class, I assumed the class would focus on fine-tuning the spiral itself, for example, body position and edge quality. However, I was pleasantly surprised when Gold announced we would work on change of edge spirals and catch-foot spirals, both of which are more challenging (and fun!) than simply breaking down the good ol’ spiral we all know and love.
A note: I had trouble hearing Gold at the beginning of the class. I am recounting the first part of the class based on what I thought I heard. If anything I have written is incorrect, please feel free to correct me in the Comments section at the end of the post.
Gold began by sharing that the spiral, like other elements in figure skating, is a little bit of a leap of faith. For example, when the skater is gliding along on the outside edge, the spiral will appear more spectacular the greater the quality and depth of the outside edge. The finishing touch to emphasizing that outside edge – and what makes the spiral transform from a simple skating move into a breathtaking and dramatic element all on its own – is that the skater lean the body as much in the direction of the outside edge as possible. Of course, one could always fall out of the spiral by leaning too much, hence the leap of faith.
Gold, in the bright pink coat, demonstrates the dramatic lean we should aim for on the spiral, a leap of faith.
We then practiced forward change of edge spirals, first from an inside edge to an outside edge, and then from an outside edge to an inside edge. I, like many other class attendees, found the inside-to-outside-edge spiral the easier of the two.
An attendee commences an inside edge spiral…… and then achieves proper position at the center of the lobe, all the while Gold keeps a watchful eye over her camp.
Gold shared a helpful way to gauge if the change of edge is not occurring quickly enough. When the skater hangs out for too long in that sort of purgatory between the two distinct inside and outside edges, the blade drags across the ice, creating an unpleasant scratching sound. Indeed, I heard this sound as I executed the edge change on my spirals.
Not to be self-deprecating, but in this otherwise lovely photo I am captured in that sort of purgatory moment during the transition from inside to outside edge. My transition didn’t occur quickly enough, resulting in my blade making an unpleasant scratching noise on the ice.
One nice touch during the class was that Gold spent one-on-one time with attendees.
Gold provides one-on-one guidance to an attendee on proper position for an inside edge spiral……and then the attendee enacts that guidance. Beautiful extension, BTW!
I was fortunate to receive one-on-one attention from Gold during the part of the class focused on catch-foot spirals. She shared that when performing a catch-foot spiral, it is key to focus more on squeezing the hip of the free leg and pushing it upwards, and less on pulling the free leg up with the hand and arm, a common mistake. The end result is more secure and dramatic extension of the free leg.
If the Spirals & Spiral Sequences class was the most favorite class I took with Gracie Gold, her Camel & Sit Spins class was the second favorite. And, just like the Spirals & Spiral Sequences class, it surpassed my expectations in a positive and challenging way. Rather than spending time on the basic spins themselves, the class was focused on spin variations. We warmed up by practicing the basic spins (going forward only; we did not practice backward spins), and then spent the bulk of the class on variations to those spins. While the class was to include the camel spin, other than during the warm-up, we spent almost all of the time on a variation to the sit spin. But this was fine! There is no harm in adjusting on the fly, and we only had so much time. After all, if the group appears to be enjoying one element and is learning a lot, why not stick to it?
A note: I was unable to find ideal photos of the Camel & Sit Spins class so regret not having any to share.
I had just begun practicing the “broken leg” sit spin variation a few weeks prior to the camp, so Gold’s focus was particularly timely in my case. She shared valuable insight on proper spin position. I explain that insight from the perspective of a skater who spins counter-clockwise. Once the skater is in the seated position, Gold said that while turning out the free leg in the broken position toward the right (the leg is bent at the knee with the thigh and lower leg creating an almost ninety-degree angle), it is key to twist the upper body and the arms in the opposite direction toward the left and across the skating leg. The head is turned toward the left as well, with the finishing touch an upward gaze. All of these details combine to create a stable balance with the free leg, which is turned out in the opposite direction.
The most challenging class I took with Gracie Gold was her Single Flip & Lutz class. The flip and lutz have been my most difficult jumps since I returned to skating as an adult. Gold commenced the class by having us practice the loop jump. This allowed her to gauge where attendees were in terms of jump position. She noticed that almost all of us were simply lifting our free leg up upon jump takeoff, as opposed to bringing it up, in, and across the takeoff leg. Thus, she spent a little time demonstrating proper jump position. As a side note, later in the day I experienced a moment of serendipity in Eddie Shipstad’s Single Loop & Loop Combinations class when he shared some of the same guidance as Gold. It is reassuring when coaches independently and unknowingly reinforce one another!
Gold demonstrates proper jump position after observing our loop jumps in the warm-up. As the clock in the photo indicates, this was the first class of the day. I was worried my body wouldn’t be fully awake yet for jumping, but the warm-up helped stimulate my muscles and left me ready to go.
Following the jump position discussion, Gold challenged us to think creatively when skating into the lutz jump. Oftentimes, skaters simply glide into the lutz’s requisite backward outside edge prior to jump takeoff from the toe of the opposite leg. Gold suggested adding choreographic interest and challenge by skating into the lutz from backward cross strokes. One of the goals of backward cross strokes is to find and achieve a strong backward outside edge, making backward cross strokes logical preparatory steps for the lutz. Not only is the repetition of the backward outside edge sequentially pretty, it helps the skater anticipate and prepare for the identical edge needed for a successful lutz jump takeoff. Further, the cross strokes provide greater power for the jump entry than simply gliding into the jump. First we practiced a backward cross stroke drill, and then we practiced a sequence consisting of two backward cross strokes followed by a lutz.
Lutz jump entry from the left backward outside edge.
I did not have the opportunity to take any classes with Geoffry Varner, but hope to do so if he returns to the camp in 2024. He led some of the most challenging classes at the camp, including double jumps and combination spins. If you took one of Varner’s classes, please feel free to comment on your experience in the Comments section below.
Varner sharing a light moment with one of his classes.
I will close Part 2 of my review the same way I closed Part 1, with a fun collage of photos. As I wrote in Part 1, I was truly amazed by the breadth and depth of talent of the camp attendees. And while there were certainly some advanced skaters at the camp, beginning and intermediate skaters should not be intimidated nor hesitate to attend. Destination Vail provides a range of instruction in an unbiased, supportive environment for adult figure skaters of all levels.
Joy!A Carefree MomentHappiness is an EdgePretty PoseFabulous Form… note the upright position, knee bend, and edge qualityCreative SpinTakeoff!One-on-One Attention from a StarA Pensive MomentTaking a BreakWarming UpCute and Funny! As someone who was a member of a Greek house in college, I find it particularly so!
Cheers to a great camp! Hope to see you at Destination Vail 2024!
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12 thoughts on “Review of Road to Gold Destination Vail 2023 Adult Figure Skating Camp, Part 2: What I Learned”
I couldn’t help but laugh about the comment about how “an arm isn’t just an arm”. I used to take adult ballet classes for a few years and this was something we used to deal with as well. There’s so much focus on the feet work, but the arms are equally just as important, even if they aren’t doing anything crazy. It sounds like you learned a lot from these classes and glad to hear that you got a bit more confidence as well!
Thank you so much for your comment! I’m thrilled that you experienced this in your ballet classes as well! The arms help complete the choreography, for sure. Without those finishing touches, skaters look as though they’re just skating from one element to another.
Wow, this is so amazing and inspiring. I grew up in Latvia where skating during the cold winters was what we did as kids and as adults, but I haven’t been on the skates since I moved to Ireland two decades ago. Just by looking at your photos, I am itching to go back as I loved gliding along the ice and I loved feeling uplifted at the end of my skate session! Thanks for sharing, and have a wonderful day 🙂 Aiva xx
Thank you so much for your kind comment! I’m happy you’ve experienced the exhilarating feeling of gliding on the ice. It is indeed uplifting and brightens my mood every time I do it. I hope one day you’ll be able to find a place to skate in Ireland!
Thanks for your comment! This year’s camp was back in July. I was fortunate to be able to go again. I’m planning to post about it soon. I learned a lot, including that I’ve been doing one of my jumps incorrectly! It sure is humbling.
The setting for my Thursday Doors* post is Croatia’s coastal Dalmatia region, a distinctive spot on the globe where the Adriatic Sea and the Dinaric Alps mountain range converge to create stunningly beautiful and dramatic photogenic effects. I focus on doors in three areas in Dalmatia: the town of Makarska,the island of Brač, and theisland of Vis. I photographed the doors over the past two decades on trips to visit family in the region.
My husband teetering on the edge of Biokovo Mountain, 5,781 feet above the red-roofed town of Makarska where he was born and raised. The anvil-shaped Saint Peter’s Peninsula juts out into the sea in the center. A ferry heading to the island of Brač is a white streak on the sea’s surface. Dense forests of cedar trees are visible along the coast.
One aspect I truly love about Dalmatia’s doors is how they incorporate the natural beauty of the area, whether it be the karst limestone of the surrounding mountains, the dark green of the cedar trees endemic to the region, the bright green of the oleander and agave plants that pop up along seaside trails and walkways, or the use of climbing plants as adornments.
I’ll begin in the town of Makarska, featuring doors in the old town and on Saint Peter’s Peninsula.
St. Mark’s church on Kačić Square is the focal point of Makarska’s old town. The church was constructed in 1700 using karst limestone from Biokovo Mountain, which rises up in the background. And don’t forget to check out the door! Its rectangular shape, sharp edges, and karst limestone casing are architectural characteristics ubiquitous throughout Dalmatia’s doors. Rustic dark green door, its sharp edges softened by a charming climbing plant. The door is encased in karst limestone, of course!Dark green mid-entry door nestled amid climbing plants and accessed by karst limestone stairs with a wrought iron railing. I was fascinated to find the mid-entry concept in Croatia, an architectural design I was first exposed to when I lived in the southeastern part of the USA.Door finished in a dark green, almost black lacquer. The bright green potted plants, including the oleander on the far left, lend a striking contrast.This several centuries old door at my favorite wine bar on Kačić Square departs from the more traditional rectangular shape, but exhibits the karst limestone casing. The story goes that merchants would display their wares on the little shelf that intersects the entry.This door (or rather, where there was once a door during medieval times) on Saint Peter’s Peninsula is a favorite photo op year after year. I am pictured in front of the door above and below, fourteen years apart. The rounded shape of the doorframe predates the rectangular shape more characteristic of the past few centuries, but the use of karst limestone is already apparent. If you venture through the door you’ll find depressions in the earth where graves once were. The remains of the graves’ occupants are long gone.
Ah, to be young again!
Now I’ll jaunt over to the island of Brač,an easy forty-five minute ferry ride from Makarska. The island of Brač is, in fact, where I happened upon the most breathtaking and vibrant door I have seen in Croatia to date. It is featured above at the beginning of the post and below. I love, love, love the ensemble of door and plant, how the door’s darker and brighter shades of green reflect the two colors of the agave plants that crown it. The bright green climbing plants in the background add dimension as well.
This dreamy door on the island of Brač beckons us to a seemingly divine, magical world just beyond it.
When my family and I want to escape the hustle and bustle of the heavily touristed coast, we head out to the still relatively remote and undiscovered island of Vis, the farthest out of all of Croatia’s islands. We love the towns of Komiža and Vis and enjoy wandering their quaint and picturesque alleyways. Below I’ll share photos of doors discovered on those wanderings.
These doors along Komiža’s Ribarska Ulica, or Fisherman’s Street in English, exhibit the same architectural characteristics as many of the doors on Croatia’s coastal Dalmatian mainland.
This black, stately, intricately decorated door in the town of Vis looks like it would be more at home in the Belgravia district of London, but is beautiful and welcome just the same! The lunette above the door features reliefs of common Dalmatian symbols, specifically, grapes, an olive branch, and an amphora.
And this lunette above a door in Komiža captures the area’s nautical identity with a sculpture of a seashell.I’ll close this post with a photo of my niece posing by a garage door with a nautically-themed mural of an octopus in the town of Vis. We often see the cute little creatures when we swim in the Adriatic Sea. They are smaller there than in other places in the world, no larger than one foot, tentacles included.
*Thursday Doors is a weekly photo challenge hosted by Dan Antion on his blog No Facilities. He encourages door lovers throughout the world to create posts of doors photographed on their travels. Please visit the following web link to learn how to participate: https://nofacilities.com/category/thursday-doors/.
24 thoughts on “Thursday Doors in Dalmatia, Croatia”
You have a wonderful eye for photography. I love your vignette about each photo. Keep traveling and sharing. Blessings, Janet Love
Thank you so much for your sweet comments! Yes, my husband is brave and scares me to death with the risks he takes just to get great photos! I hope you can visit Croatia again soon. Let me know if you have any questions. I look forward to checking out your blog!
Take care keep that wayward lad on a string! 😀 We have very happy memories of our stay our base was about a 10 minute walk outside of Dubrovnik 💜💜
These are wonderful doors. Thanks for joining with us at Thursday Doors. The photos are beautiful, and I love the descriptions interlaced between them. This is my second attempt at leaving a comment (I hope it shows up). I can’t pick a favorite. I thought it would be the first photo. Then I though St Mark’s Church. Then the green door, then the arch, then the side view of the green door on the slope – there are too many good ones!
Thank you so much for your detailed and thoughtful comment! I agree… it is challenging to select a favorite… they are all so unique and beautiful in their own way! I’m already looking forward to finding more doors when I head to Croatia this summer.
One more thing… I just discovered your initial comment in my Spam folder. I’m not sure how it ended up in there! I’ll be sure to check that in the future.
Every travel picture I’ve seen from Croatia has been breathtakingly beautiful! I wish “they” would hurry up and invent virtual travel, so I could go walk around “there”.
Thank you so much for your comment! And yes… wouldn’t virtual travel be nice! I feel so fortunate that my husband is from Croatia, such a beautiful little corner of the world… lots of magical trips!
Lovely set of captures. I don’t think I’d be brave enough to stand on those rocks like your husband! But what a great picture! It’s also neat how you were able to take a picture in the same spot fourteen years later. I can see why that rounded door is a favourite spot for pictures. Looks lovely. We’d love to visit Croatia someday. It’s high up there on our travel bucket list.
Croatia is definitely one of those bucket list places! And such a photogenic place… I find myself taking photos of the same image year after year… the beauty always draws me in!
These are all such beautiful doors. I love capturing windows and doors whenever we travel the world as they can reflect the architectural fashions of a past time, furnish an insight into the heritage of a region, provide a compositional framework for a better picture, or just produce a literal window into other people’s lives. And let’s face it, it’s always interesting to peek into someone else’s house or yard, just to see how they live. Thanks for sharing, and have a wonderful day 🙂 Aiva xx
Thank you! I feel very fortunate 😊 And so, so sweet about your father. It’s unfortunate how things like history and political upheaval can get in the way of maintaining connection, a common theme the world over, it seems.
Review of Road to Gold Destination Vail 2023 Adult Figure Skating Camp, Part 1: Overview
This past summer, I was fortunate to attend two-time US Ladies National Figure Skating Champion and Olympic Bronze Medalist Gracie Gold’s Road to Gold Destination Vail training camp. Presented by the Vail Skating Festival in conjunction with Shipstad Entertainment, Road to Gold Destination Vail is perhaps the most storied of all the Road to Gold training camps, which Gracie Gold holds in various locales around the USA. Attracting attendees from around the world, Destination Vail is held each July in Vail, Colorado, the iconic Rocky Mountain ski town founded in the 1960s and once-favored retreat of 38th US President Gerald Ford and First Lady Betty Ford. Perhaps best of all, in addition to a camp for children, Destination Vail includes a two-day camp exclusively for adult figure skaters. This post is the first in a two-part review focused on the part of the camp for adults.
All photos in this post were taken by Sam Atagana Photography. I purchased the full collection of camp photos and am posting a selection with the permission of Sam Atagana Photography. The post’s photo captions were written by me.
Photo featured above: Gracie Gold surveys her camp in Vail’s Dobson Ice Arena.
Disclaimer: This review is based on my own perceptions and experiences as an attendee of Road to Gold Destination Vail. I am not affiliated with Road to Gold Destination Vail.
In Part 1 of my review I provide an overview of the camp, including technical details on location, cost, lodging, and attendees; coaching staff; camp format, including types and levels of classes offered; and, perhaps best of all, the value added… in other words, why adult figure skaters should make Destination Vail the pinnacle of their summer training schedule! And just for kicks and giggles, I’ll share some photos from around the camp.This review is timely as the dates for Road to Gold Destination Vail 2024 were recently announced. Registration for the 2024 camp begins in March. To learn about the 2024 camp, visit the following link: https://www.road2goldskating.com/group/2024-adult-destination-vail/about. I hope my review will encourage adult figure skaters to attend the camp this July! In Part 2 I share highlights of what I learned at the camp, including what I learned from the camp’s star, Gracie Gold. To read Part 2 of my review, visit the following link: https://findingbalanceontheedge.blog/2024/03/18/review-of-road-to-gold-destination-vail-2023-adult-figure-skating-camp-part-2-what-i-learned/
Technical Details
Location: Dobson Ice Arena, in the Lionshead Village part of Vail, which is accessed from Exit 176 on US Interstate 70 (I-70). Free daytime parking with no time limit is available in the Lionshead Parking Structure, a convenient three-minute walk from the rink. The two nearest airports are Denver International Airport (about a two-hour drive, depending on traffic, which can be heavy and slow at times) and Eagle Regional Airport (about a forty-minute drive). While major air carriers service both airports, there is more selection at the Denver airport.
Cost: Classes are purchased à la carte and range in price from $27 to $37, with the off-ice classes being $27. There is a break in pricing if a certain number of classes are purchased (if I remember correctly, if 9 or more classes are purchased). Classes take place over two days, but there is no requirement that an attendee participate both days. It is possible to attend just one of the days.
Lodging: Unfortunately, there were no discounts on lodging in Vail for camp attendees. Several of my friends went in on a condo rental and saved money that way. I highly recommend staying in Vail if at all possible. It is a small and manageable pedestrian-friendly town, in most cases allowing attendees to walk to the rink from their accommodation. I, on the other hand, thought I would save money by staying at my pied-à-terre in nearby Summit County. I had to undertake a 35-minute drive both ways each day over Vail Pass, a challenging part of I-70 known for twists and turns amid significant elevation gains and drops. By the time I arrived at the camp, I was anxious and stressed from the white-knuckle drive. Not the way to commence an action-packed skating day! If you are willing to drive about 10-15 minutes each way, the town of Avon – the next town west of Vail on I-70 – is slightly cheaper. The drive is on a relatively simpler and flatter stretch of the interstate, too, so no arriving at camp all stressed out!
Attendees: 43 adult figure skaters from around the USA and Canada were in attendance (the 2022 camp included an attendee from as far away as New Zealand!), plus four coaches and Road to Gold staff. The skaters were of all levels, from beginner to advanced. I learned that some of the skaters traveled to Vail with their families in tow, having decided to make a vacation out of the experience. Vail is full of activities in the summertime, including hiking, mountain biking, chair lift rides, and of course excellent dining and shopping. And the mountains are so beautiful and green at that time of year!
Coaching Staff
Road to Gold Destination Vail 2023 boasted a stellar coaching staff made up of figure skating champions, current and former national and international competitors, and elite coaches with extensive experience working with elite skaters from around the globe.
The camp’s world-renowned namesake Gracie Gold is a two-time US Ladies National Figure Skating Champion and Olympic Bronze Medalist. While Gold won her first US national championship in 2014, she competed at US Nationals as recently as 2023. As an adult skater, I find it inspiring that Gold has not allowed her age – nor the at times arduous challenges she has faced along the way – deter her from continuing to compete at the highest level.
Gracie Gold leads the Single Flip and Lutz class, all the while in an adorable sweater she knitted herself.Gold guides an attendee toward the ideal position for a change of edge spiral in her Spirals and Spiral Sequences class. Great extension, BTW! And super cute hair buns.
Geoffry Varner is a former US national and international competitor and medalist. Currently an elite Senior Coach at the San Diego Ice Arena, his accolades include three-time competitor at the ISU Junior Grand Prix, where he earned the title of ISU Junior Grand Prix Final Bronze Medalist.
Geoffry Varner addresses one of his classes. He led some of the most challenging classes at the camp, including double jumps and combination spins.Varner lends a helping hand.
Eddie Shipstad is a former five-time US national competitor and US Nationals Novice Silver Medalist. Currently an elite coach at the world-renowned Broadmoor Skating Club in Colorado Springs, Colorado, he is a PSA Master Rated Jump Specialist who has shared his insights on jump technique with elite figure skaters the world over, including at the World Figure Skating Championships. And in a fascinating biographical twist, he is the owner of Shipstad Entertainment, carrying on a storied family tradition in ice show production.
Eddie Shipstad shares his knowledge on jump technique.
Shipstad chats with a camp attendee.
This review would not be complete without a shoutout to Amy Fankhauser, the Founder, Owner, and National Coordinator of Road to Gold Training Camps. Amy kept camp attendees apprised of the latest details in the months, weeks, and days leading up to the camp, and was an invaluable and responsive resource for a variety of questions. And when the camp finally arrived, she ensured it proceeded as smooth as ice! (pardon my trite skating pun; I cannot help myself).
Amy Fankauser (right), a figure skater herself, assists with a class.
Camp Format
The camp took place over a long weekend, beginning on a Friday night with a meet and greet event, followed by two days of skating classes on Saturday and Sunday. The meet and greet was held on the patio of the Dobson Ice Arena. It consisted of a panel made up of the coaching staff, who fielded questions from camp attendees and shared fun facts about themselves. After the panel, the coaches were gracious and spoke with each of the attendees individually, as well as posed for photos. See my blog’s home page for a photo of me with the coaches.
Classes were held on Saturday and Sunday, beginning at 8:45 AM and ending by 3:15 PM. On-ice and off-ice classes were for 40 and 30 minutes, respectively. Two on-ice classes took place at the same time, with each class using half of the rink. There were a total of 31 on-ice classes covering a variety of topics, including single and double jumps, single, combination, and flying spins, steps and turns, spirals, choreography, and visualization. The 11 off-ice classes included such topics as stretching, jump theory and technique, and developing upper body lines, among others. Some of the instructors of the off-ice classes were professionals with expertise in areas ancillary to figure skating, such as movement and injury prevention. In addition to classes, freestyle sessions were available before and after the camp on both days, allowing attendees to take private lessons from the camp coaches for an additional cost.
With respect to level, classes were designated as “A,” “B,” or “C,” with “A” the easiest and “C” the hardest. Class descriptions included helpful pre-requisites for determining which levels were appropriate for the skater. For example, the pre-requisite for the “B” level Single Loop and Loop Combinations class was “participants should be able to perform a back spin and back outside 3-turns and should be attempting or ready to attempt a single loop jump.” And for the “C” level Flying Spins class, the pre-requisite was “must be able to complete a minimum of three revolutions in forward camel and sit spins and one to two revolutions in back camel and sit spins.” It was not unusual for skaters to take classes at all levels, as skaters can be more advanced in one area and less advanced in another. I am probably a “B” level skater but found I acquired valuable insight in all class levels I took, including at the “A” level. All of the classes, regardless of level, were presented in an innovative, challenging, yet supportive manner, which I will discuss in greater detail in the Value Added section below.
Value Added
In discussions my friends and I had about Destination Vail, we agreed that the camp was different from what we anticipated, but in a positive, very effective way. The innovative coaching style encouraged us to approach our skating from a fresh perspective. Rather than rehash skills we were already learning and working on at home, the coaches presented us with new content and challenges. For example, when some of us signed up for James Hernandez’s Fundamental Turns and Steps class, we thought he would provide instruction on how to perfect specific turns and steps. However, instead of focusing on the “how to” of turns and steps, he had us put turns and steps together in a choreographic sequence, which we then skated to music at the end of the class. The sequence consisted of crossovers, 3-turns, C turns, and pivots, among other steps. It was challenging to learn and memorize the sequence in a short amount of time, but very fun. So rather than wasting time going over what we were already working on elsewhere, he took what we are working on in a new direction, a few steps further (no pun intended!).
This is why Destination Vail is so effective. The coaches devise innovative ways to push skaters beyond their comfort zone to try something new. And when you add the supportive and non-judgmental camp aura to the mix, the result is that skaters are less afraid to attempt – and then achieve – new things. For example, in Eddie Shipstad’s Single Loop and Single Loop Combos class I was able, for the first time in two decades, to attempt and land a loop jump as the second jump in a combination. Up until then, I had been too afraid to attempt it. But at Destination Vail, with new insight and tips from Shipstad, in a supportive environment surrounded by my skating peers, I was able to do it. I then left the camp with a newfound confidence and positive mindset from which to approach my skating.
Perhaps best of all, Destination Vail was an invaluable opportunity to connect and network with other adult figure skaters. There was a palpable feeling of belonging permeating throughout the camp, which helped us experience first hand how we are all part of a greater community of adult figure skaters. This is crucial in a sport where at times adult skaters can feel like they must strive to justify their presence on the ice amid much younger generations of skaters. For while the number of adults who figure skate has seen a steady rise over the past several decades, adults remain in the minority at their home skating clubs. Destination Vail provides legitimacy to adult figure skating and inspires skaters to continue on their figure skating journey, no matter what challenges they may face.
I’ll close this post by sharing some additional photos from around Destination Vail. I was truly amazed by the breadth and depth of talent of the camp attendees, some for whom double jumps and creative combination spins were consistent and effortless. And while there were certainly some advanced skaters at the camp, beginning and intermediate skaters should not be intimidated nor hesitate to attend. Destination Vail provides a range of instruction in an unbiased, supportive environment for adult figure skaters of all levels.
First Class of the DayIn-Step Start to a Choreographic SequenceStunning!Strike a PoseSheer HappinessGetting Some AirAmazing Knee BendWatching IntentlyListening IntentlyCrossoversIt’s All in the Details… note the gaze, hands, and fingersThe Spiral: Simple Yet IconicAnd Equally Iconic: The Layback SpinOff-Ice Class on Developing Body Lines
Hope to see you at Road to Gold Destination Vail 2024!
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3 thoughts on “Review of Road to Gold Destination Vail 2023 Adult Figure Skating Camp, Part 1: Overview”
Sounds like a fun experience! The cost of the classes seems quite reasonable, especially considering the coaching staff and their approach to try new things. I’m always amazed at how effortless figure skates make everything look, but the reality is that it requires a lot of training!!
Yes! I always say it takes natural talent plus a ton of hard work! Lots of little details must come together, and all at once, or else you fall on your rear… and not just on the jumps! Some of my worst injuries have been from falls when practicing turn sequences.
In this post, I explore the Cathédrale Saint-André de Bordeaux and what I view as the paradox of cathedrals. That is, how cathedrals serve as embodiments of eternal life yet at the same time force us to face the brevity of life. This post is the second in a three-part series about a day I spent wandering in Bordeaux, France.
Image featured above: the north side of the Cathédrale Saint-André, including the gilded adornment of the Tour Pey-Berland (far left) and the rose window, set brilliantly against a clear blue sky.
Close-up of the gilded statue atop the Tour Pey-Berland. The statue is of the Virgin Mary, or Our Lady of Aquitaine.
While I will not recount the complete history of the Cathédrale Saint-André, I will highlight the historical elements I found most fascinating. The cathedral is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Its construction spanned five centuries, from the eleventh through the sixteenth. In the twelfth century, it was the site of the wedding of Eleanor of Aquitaine and the future French king Louis VII. And in the early seventeenth century, the parents of future French king Louis XIV were married there. While most of the original stained glass in its windows no longer remains, the rose window on the north side of the cathedral is scattered with pieces of glass from the cathedral’s medieval beginnings.
Rose window containing pieces of original stained glass from medieval times.
I was able to marvel at the cathedral’s exterior from my table at a sidewalk café on the Place Pey-Berland, directly across from the cathedral’s north side. After finishing my coffee, I ventured inside the cathedral to explore its interior.
Selfie at the sidewalk café on the Place Pey-Berland. It was from this vantage point that I took the above photos of the cathedral’s exterior.
Now, for a more philosophical discussion of Europe’s cathedrals, within the context of my visit to the Cathédrale Saint-André. I’ve always made it a priority to visit the cathedrals in every city I visit. Not only are they stunning architectural wonders, they provide a quiet place to sit, rest a bit, and consider next steps.
Nave of the Cathédrale Saint-André de Bordeaux, where I sat and took some time to contemplate.
Perhaps most of all, cathedrals offer an opportunity to face and contemplate the brevity of life, how our lives are but brief points along a greater continuum. For when one considers how old the cathedrals are and just how many generations of people have contemplated within their walls, it puts our time on Earth in perspective. After our lives are over, the cathedrals will still be standing, welcoming new generations, just as they have welcomed dozens of generations before ours. Our generation’s duty, like that of past generations, is to tend, maintain, and preserve the cathedrals for future generations, who will one day inherit and assume the same duty. We are but mere caretakers at one point in time.
This leads me to ponder what I view as the paradox of cathedrals: they offer an opportunity to contemplate the brevity of life in a setting that celebrates eternal life, life that endures forever and never dies. Through the grandeur of their design, the longevity of their existence, and the word delivered by their clergy, cathedrals celebrate and serve as timeless, tangible symbols of eternal life. Yet when I visit a cathedral, surrounded by pieces of stone that have been in place for centuries, I’m forced to face the unsettling reality of how fleeting and insignificant my own existence is. And in that moment – given my own questions and doubts about the concept of eternal life – facing that reality leaves me feeling uncomfortable and and a little depressed.
After all of that intense contemplating, I decided to wrest myself out of my head by wandering around the cathedral’s interior. While doing so, I was pleased to discover an uplifting sentiment of Saint François de Sales mounted to the wall of the cathedral. When translated to English, it reads “All through love, nothing through force.” If only the world would take this advice to heart! In keeping with the timeless and enduring nature of cathedrals and the message conveyed by their clergy, the sentiment is as relevant in the twenty-first century as it was during Saint François de Sales’ life in the mid-sixteenth to early-seventeenth centuries.
Sentiment by Saint François de Sales: “All through love, nothing through force.”
I’m always interested in checking out the organs in cathedrals, as my father is an organist (and pianist and cellist). I stopped to take in the organ’s massive pipes above the rear of the nave. This current organ was installed in 1982. It conjured up happy memories of attending an organ concert in another of France’s great cathedrals, Notre Dame de Paris, with my parents in 1994.
Pipes of the organ, installed in 1982.
While wandering across the cathedral’s transept, I snapped a photo of the vaults in the ceiling above the choir area. The vaults were added in the sixteenth century, during the fifth and final century of the cathedral’s construction. It is so fascinating to consider that even though it took five-hundred years to complete construction, it has been five-hundred years since construction was completed. Yet another mind-boggling example of the brevity of life cathedrals make us face!
Vaults above the choir, added in the sixteenth century.
Finally, religion is so serious it can be fun to find humor in it from time to time. I found just that in the below ad inside the cathedral. A handsome priest is advertising an app to make the act of tithing more convenient. Don’t have any cash? Use the collection app! I find the irony quite entertaining, that a place of worship would use physical attraction to manipulate the faithful to tithe! And also that an institution as old as the Catholic Church would readily embrace modern technology to generate income.
And on that hilarious note, I departed the cathedral and continued along my wandering route. The third and final post about my wanderings should appear within a few weeks. I’ll share about the terminus of my route, the Place de la Comédie, as well as the late-afternoon snack I had there at Le Regent Café.
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3 thoughts on “Wandering in Bordeaux (Part 2)”
Very interesting, Carolyn. Good insights. Love, Mom
I do sometimes come out of them (cathedrals) with an image of Christ turning over the tables outside. You never see a poor looking priest and the glitter is sometimes excessive. I felt a little that way at the ruckus on the steps of the cathedral in Cadiz. It’s the puritan in me, but I can laugh at myself. The architecture astounds.
Excellent insights! The opulence is indeed in conflict with what Christ taught. I, too, grew up in a puritanical-type faith so it is very different. Although beautiful architecture to marvel at.
While guided tours and planned activities offer great opportunities to learn about new places and cultures, one of the most authentic and meaningful ways to experience a city when traveling is to simply wander. Wandering allows the traveler to become part of the pulse of a city. It is an opportunity to witness life as it is for the locals, who are out and about living their lives. Also, wandering is spontaneous and allows the traveler to discover a city as it unfolds before them. And it is exciting because without an agenda, no one knows just how the day will unfold…
This post is the first in a two-to-three part series in which I share about a day spent wandering in Bordeaux, France. In the image featured above, Bordelais (Bordeaux inhabitants) are out and about, taking advantage of a sunny day in early spring. I might have taken a break from my own wandering activities at this café if only a table had been available!
While the act of wandering is spontaneous, to make the most out of wandering experiences it is best to take a strategic approach, to have a general idea of which part of town you’d like to explore ahead of time. When I visit a new city, I find that riding public transportation provides an opportunity to check out various neighborhoods. Then, once I find a neighborhood that particularly strikes my curiosity, I return to it another day and explore it on foot, without an agenda.
My husband and I stayed in Bordeaux at the Maison Internationale, located right next to the Bergonié stop on tram line B.
The Maison Internationale
In the process of riding tram B I not only discovered one of the most happening areas of Bordeaux’s city center, the Place de la Comédie, but also a bunch of delightful shops and the historic Cathédrale Saint-André de Bordeaux.
Tram B snaking its way through the Place de la Comédie, as viewed from Le Regent Café. On the right the columns of the Grand Théȃtre are visible, and on the left the façade of the Grand Hôtel (InterContinental Bordeaux).
I decided that I would spend a day wandering from the vicinity of the Cathédrale Saint-André to the Place de la Comédie, where I would complete my route by meeting my husband for a late afternoon snack at Le Regent Café. And one convenience of wandering not far from the tram line was that if I needed to, I could simply jump on the tram to complete my journey.
Window shopping was perhaps the most enjoyable part of my day spent wandering, and I dedicate much of this post to it. Some of the most creative and captivating window displays I have ever seen have been in France. The shop windows in Bordeaux were no exception. Below I share my most favorite displays.
The lithe and graceful ballet dancer in the window at the Bordeaux location of Repetto was stunning. Founded in Paris by famed artisan Rose Repetto, Repetto has been the French standard in ballet pointe shoes and dancewear since 1947.
A sparkling crystal shop caught my eye, and quite literally, too! I didn’t realize it at the time, but when I looked at the photo later I noticed my reflection captured in the window. And of course the champagne glass tower is timeless!
That same crystal shop’s flirtatious display of flowers, fruity macarons and pink champagne left me drooling.
And porcelain plates intertwined with crisp white flowers united to create a fresh bouquet in the window of a porcelain shop.
Now, once in a while there is a shop that is so captivating from the outside it is simply impossible not to go inside. The patisserie in the photo below was one such shop. As you can see, the photo was taken from the inside! The colorful display of macarons in a variety of flavors was simply too tempting to pass by. I entered the shop and filled up a bag with macarons to take with me!
The patisserie is located in the same building as the Grand Hôtel on the Place de la Comédie. It is a separate business at the building’s southeast corner, where the Cours de L’Intendance meets the Place de la Comédie. And just for kicks and giggles, a close-up of the delicious macarons. I am partial to the vanilla and chocolate!
I took a break from wandering at a café on Place Pey Berland, where I was able to gaze at the Cathédrale Saint-André de Bordeaux while sipping my coffee. I’ll write about my visit to the cathedral in my next post!
Selfie at the café on Place Pey Berland.View of the cathedral from the café.
I’ll close this post by sharing a BORDEAUX FUN FACT. Did you know that in Bordeaux the delectable and sweet French pastry commonly known as a pain au chocolat is referred to as a chocolatine? I studied in Paris my entire junior year of college and never learned this until I visited Bordeaux decades later. If you order a pain au chocolat in Bordeaux’s bakeries, you will be met with a quizzical gaze. The chocolatine reference is used throughout southwestern France, while pain au chocolat reigns supreme throughout the rest of the country.
Delicious chocolatines that I picked up at Jeannot’s Patisserie and Bistro, located where I live in the USA. Jeannot’s refers to the tasty treats as pain au chocolats, however!
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I’m a wanderer by instinct, but I do hate to miss things. There’s a good chance that I’ll never come back so I like to see as much as I can. I’m not much of a shopper either, but I can be very taken with a good looking window. And I know that my readers will view your macarons and pastries with round eyes. Thanks for sharing.
You’re very welcome. I stopped to cook supper but am intrigued by the combination of Dalmatian and figure skater, so I’m back to find out a little more.
Thank you so, so much! I’m very flattered 😊 I’ve often wondered if I made the right decision having one blog with two very different foci, figure skating and travel. It’s so helpful to know that it is intriguing! Enjoy your supper!
Review of Ashley Wagner’s Skate & Sculpt Fitness Class (Part 2)
This post is the second in a two-part review of three-time US National Ladies Figure Skating Champion and Olympic bronze medalist Ashley Wagner’s Skate & Sculpt, an adults-only on-ice figure skating fitness class. In Part 2, I share a handful of key takeaways from the Skate & Sculpt class I took. I write about the content that captivated me personally and do not share everything covered in the class. I recommend attending Skate & Sculpt for the full experience, and hope my review has encouraged those who read it to do so!
Image featured above: My friends and I with Ashley Wagner after her Skate & Sculpt class. Ashley is third from the right in the grey hat. Ashley graciously posed for photos with all of the class attendees.
Disclaimer: This review was written based on my own perceptions and experiences in the Skate & Sculpt class I took. I am not affiliated with Skate & Sculpt and do not speak on behalf of Skate & Sculpt.
In this post, I use photos to demonstrate the takeaways I have found most useful for my figure skating practice. The photos are of me and were not taken at Skate & Sculpt, but rather when I was practicing on my own. They are frames from videos I took on my phone, which was propped up on the side of the rink against the plexiglass, so I apologize that the photos are a little blurry. I also provide analysis on how to perform each move well.
I will begin by discussing key takeaways from the warm-up. The warm-up lasted around ten minutes. All forty class attendees skated the warm-up counter-clockwise around the rink. The warm-up included a couple exercises to warm up the thighs and hips, specifically squats and leg lifts.
The below two photos demonstrate the squat exercise, which we skated for at least one full lap around the rink. I find that skating a swivel prior to dropping into the squat position allows me to maintain power throughout the lap. Without skating a swivel, I tend to run out of steam before I reach the end of one length (half of a lap) of the rink.
A swivel to generate power before going into the squat.The squat position.
To achieve the most benefit from the squat position, tighten the abdominal muscles, stretch the tailbone backward as much as possible while reaching forward with the arms, and keep the shoulders pressed down while holding the head up. The result is a deeper squat.
The below photo demonstrates the position of the leg lift exercise used to warm up the hips. We skated one to two laps of the rink per leg.
Position for the leg lift exercise. The position of the free leg is identical to the free leg position in a layback spin.
The leg lift exercise is performed from an upright body position with the core muscles tightened, shoulders pressed down, and head held up. The arms are held above the head, identical to the position of the arms in a layback spin. The crux of the exercise is to engage and tighten the hip muscles of the free leg to lift the outer leg up and down, with the motion originating from the hip joint. The hip is turned out slightly with the leg pushed back (use the hip muscles to push the leg back), knee bent, and foot flexed. I find the position of the free leg is more secure and tight if I hold the flexed foot as close as possible to my body; it makes the free leg easier to control and lift.
Now I will discuss my favorite element of the warm-up, that is, forward crossovers (but not just any forward crossovers!). In this drill, forward crossovers are skated on an axis lengthwise down both sides of the rink, creating lobes curving toward the axis. The aim is to hold the third and final step of each crossover, that is, the forward inside edge, a little longer than each of the two prior steps. The skater should be able to sink into and hold a secure inside edge. In the below image on the left I am holding the right forward inside edge, and in the image on the right I am holding the left forward inside edge.
Several elements must come together to achieve a strong and stable forward inside edge. The knee of the skating leg should be bent as deeply as possible. Perhaps most importantly, the skater should check the curve of the lobe by twisting the upper body (and bringing the arms across) in the opposite direction of the curve. When the upper body is twisted in the opposite direction more body weight is transferred to the skating leg, from which a secure inside edge follows; the body leans naturally into the edge and the curve. As a finishing touch, the free leg should be extended as much as the body allows, with the knee straight and toes pointed. And the stronger the upper body twist, the easier it is to control and extend the free leg.
Following the warm-up, we spent the bulk of Skate & Sculpt skating various patterns across the ice. My favorite was a circular crossover pattern, which I demonstrate in the video below. The pattern can be skated clockwise or counter-clockwise. I skate the pattern clockwise in the video. The specific steps of the pattern are as follows: two forward crossovers – a barrel roll – two backward crossovers – a turn forward and simultaneous step onto the forward inside edge. The pattern consists of twelve steps total, after which the skater can begin the pattern again. I skate the pattern twice in the video. Each step of the pattern is skated to the same beat. In Skate & Sculpt, the pattern was skated to two different beats, a quicker beat and a slower, more elongated beat. Of course both ways have their benefits and allow the skater to work on different things.
Now, when I learned this pattern at Skate & Sculpt, I hadn’t heard of a barrel roll before. For those for whom this move may also be new, a barrel roll consists of a mohawk turn followed by a cross step of the free leg. In other words, do not step onto the ice with the free leg immediately after the mohawk; instead, extend the free leg, bring it across the front of the body, AND THEN step onto the ice. After stepping onto the ice, the skater is positioned perfectly to skate the two backward crossovers that follow in the pattern.
I will close this post by sharing about the final part of Skate & Sculpt. Specifically, when we were able to engage our creativity and skate a pattern of our own design lengthwise down the rink. I gravitated toward a side-bend-like position on two feet, which I skated on half-lobes on each side of the lengthwise axis. I have enjoyed skating this move ever since I began skating decades ago. It is as if my body just wants to go there naturally. Below are a couple photos of the side-bend pattern I created.
Overall, Skate & Sculpt was an invigorating experience and I am very glad I attended it. The class content is useful, practical, and incorporates seamlessly into existing on-ice training routines. And as I stated in Part 1 of my review, in addition to being a powerful force on the ice, Ashley Wagner is an inspiring and sincere individual who is empathetic to the challenges and needs of adult skaters. It was a pleasure to meet her in person and take her Skate & Sculpt class. Thank you Ashley!
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One thought on “Review of Ashley Wagner’s Skate & Sculpt Fitness Class (Part 2)”
Review of Ashley Wagner’s Skate & Sculpt Fitness Class (Part 1)
Recently, I had the pleasure of attending three-time US National Ladies Figure Skating Champion and Olympic bronze medalist Ashley Wagner’s Skate & Sculpt, an adults-only on-ice figure skating fitness class. Ashley Wagner tours around the USA leading Skate & Sculpt for skaters aged 18 and up.
Image featured above: My friends and I with Ashley Wagner after her Skate & Sculpt class. Ashley is third from the right in the grey hat. Ashley graciously posed for photos with all of the class attendees.
Disclaimer:This review was written based on my own perceptions and experiences in the Skate & Sculpt class I took. I am not affiliated with Skate & Sculpt and do not speak on behalf of Skate & Sculpt.
This post is the first in a two-part review of Ashley Wagner’s Skate & Sculpt. In Part 1,I provide an overview of the class itself. In Part 2, I share a few key takeaways from my perspective, takeaways that I have since incorporated into my on-ice training routine. Of course, I recommend attending Skate & Sculpt for the full experience and hope my review has encouraged you to do so!
When I signed up for Skate & Sculpt, I was curious to see how Ashley Wagner would be in person. She is considered a bit of a maverick in the figure skating world, known for her honesty and fearless departure from the traditional. She created waves during the Fall 2013-Spring 2014 competition season by skating to Pink Floyd’s “Shine on You Crazy Diamond,” a musical aesthetic that at least on the surface may appear more Elvis Stojko than ladies figure skating competitor. Yet she pulled it off with moxie and grace to spare! Personally, I find Ashley Wagner’s departure from the norm refreshing. I tend to think of ladies figure skating in the USA as being a little conservative and white gloves-y, so appreciate when a skater hits the scene who doesn’t fit the mold. The figure skating world needs more people like that.
I was pleased to discover that Ashley Wagner brings her honest and fearless nature to Skate & Sculpt. Specifically, she is unafraid to acknowledge one of the unfortunate truths of figure skating, that adult figure skaters often struggle to find and justify their space on the ice. First, it can be awkward and intimidating for adult skaters to seek out space when youthful skaters are flying around the ice practicing advanced skating moves. Next, and perhaps most importantly, adults can at times feel resented for taking up space on the ice. Ice time is limited and expensive, and – unfortunately – there are haters out there who believe adults should yield valuable ice time to children who still have a chance to compete at Nationals or the Olympics. Ashley Wagner’s Skate & Sculpt class creates a liberating safe space for adults to practice figure skating unencumbered by resentment and judgement. It is simply just fun!
Now I will provide a summary of the Skate & Sculpt class I took. There were around forty of us in attendance at the one-hour class. Ashley began the class with a spunky word of welcome about what we could expect. Her welcome included one swear word, a refreshing trademark of her honest and somewhat unfiltered style! Then, we skated a warm-up led by Ashley to popular music playing overhead. She wore a headset so could offer instructions and words of encouragement to the entire group throughout the class. I will discuss specific elements of the warm-up in Part 2 of my review.
Following the warm-up, Ashley had us divide ourselves into two groups, beginner and advanced, as the class aims to accommodate skaters of all levels. Each group had its own side of the rink, running parallel lengthwise. Ashley taught and demonstrated various skating patterns, which each group then practiced down the length of the rink. The turns in the patterns ranged from basic mohawk and three-turns to more advanced counters and rockers.
A couple of friends and I initially joined the advanced group, but soon moved to the beginner group, as we are currently at a level between beginner and advanced. The advanced group was more equivalent in level to the novice through senior moves in the field tests, in other words levels 6 through 8 of the 8-level moves in the field test structure. The beginner group was more equivalent in level to pre-preliminary through pre-juvenile, in other words levels 1 through 3. And there was no shame at all in dropping from the advanced group to the beginner group… no baleful stares or stink eye from the other skaters! By contrast, there was a supportive vibe permeating throughout the class. Also, given Skate & Sculpt’s aims of inclusivity and fun, Ashley does modifications to the patterns in order to make them accessible to skaters of all levels. I was impressed to notice Ashley taking the time to work with a no-test beginner one on one to help find a pattern that would work for them.
Following the lengthwise patterns part of the class, Ashley taught us a circular crossover drill. I will discuss the drill in detail in Part 2 of my review. Both groups practiced the drill at different speeds on their own half of the rink, which was divided widthwise across the center. The more advanced group skated to a quicker beat, while the beginner group skated to a slower, more elongated beat.
Our final exercise in the class was simply to skate a lengthwise pattern of our own choosing, allowing us to explore our creativity and improvise on the spot. Ashley ended the class with an encouraging and candid discussion about the challenges adult figure skaters face, indeed that she herself has faced since the end of her competitive days, reminding us that Skate & Sculpt is our space and our space alone.
Probably the greatest challenge for my friends and me was simply following the patterns, as they could be fairly intricate and we were learning them on the spot. One friend remarked that she would be willing to pay extra to find out the patterns in advance of the class itself. However, this provides motivation for us to attend again in the future, now that we are more familiar with what to expect. Another friend who skates at a solid beginner level (having passed the Adult Bronze moves in the field test) remarked that even though the patterns could be challenging, she learned many new things that made attending the class more than worthwhile. This perspective is important to highlight for anyone who may be on the fence about attending Skate & Sculpt. There is no need to be wishy washy or afraid. Just go for it! You won’t regret it. Of course I know that can be easier said than done. Figure skating is such a competitive sport that it is not unusual for us to be apprehensive, to worry we will not fit in or measure up. Skate & Sculpt is antithetical to this type of mindset. All are welcome in the class.
Overall, Skate & Sculpt was an invigorating experience and I am very glad I attended it. Indeed, my friends and I were raving about the class for weeks afterwards and have incorporated some of what we learned into our on-ice training routines. In addition to being a powerful force on the ice, Ashley Wagner is an inspiring and sincere individual who is empathetic to the challenges and needs of adult skaters. It was a pleasure to meet her in person and take her Skate & Sculpt class. Thank you Ashley!
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MCL Tear Recovery: Off-Ice Exercises for Figure Skaters (and all athletes!)
I sustained a high-grade tear to the MCL on my left knee this past summer. While initially it was devastating – requiring me to take a three-month break from figure skating – I worked hard to find a silver lining. I discovered two off-ice exercises on my road to recovery that not only helped maintain my fitness level while my usual exercise routine was interrupted, but also helped improve my figure skating once I was able to return to the ice. In fact, the exercises were so useful that I have incorporated them permanently into my off-ice training routine. And while in this post discussion of the exercises is oriented toward figure skating, any athlete recovering from an MCL tear can incorporate them into their recovery. The exercises were recommended by my orthopedist for MCL recovery in general, after which I refined them to apply to the sport of figure skating more specifically.
The MCL, or Medial Collateral Ligament, is one of the knee’s four ligaments. Ligaments provide stability to the knee by holding together bones, joints, muscles, and tendons. When recovering from an injury to the MCL, exercise is paramount because it stimulates blood flow to the injured area, speeding up the healing process. Due to its location on the inner side of the knee, when the MCL is injured it is possible to perform exercises requiring a gentle up and down, non-pounding motion of the knee because the MCL is not engaged. By contrast, exercises requiring a side to side motion, for example, the frog kick when swimming, or those that cause pounding of the knee, for example, walking or running on a treadmill, should be avoided as they strain and engage the MCL.
My orthopedist recommended three different exercise options for my recovery: the stationary bike, the elliptical machine, and swimming. I initially tried the stationary bike but found it too boring and not burning many calories. So I moved on to the elliptical machine and swimming, both of which I found more interesting and could modify slightly to benefit my figure skating.
The elliptical machine is ideal for maintaining fitness while recovering from an MCL injury. The continuous ellipse-like motion prevents pounding of the joints and, because the knee is moving in a slight and gentle up and down manner, does not strain the MCL. The elliptical machine offers a variety of workout programs, ranging from fat burning and aerobic to strength training and climbing, allowing the user to select a workout based on their needs and fitness level. Perhaps the best benefit for figure skaters is that the workout provides an opportunity to build core strength, from which strong posture on the ice follows. I modified my workout in this aim by maintaining an upright, hands-free position on the elliptical as if I were running in place, making sure to avoid holding on to the machine’s handles. This position helps build core strength as the core muscles, which include the abdominals, obliques, and those surrounding the spine, must be engaged in order to maintain it. It is key to NOT hold on to the machine’s handles as doing so causes the upper body to lean forward and break at the waist, after which the core muscles are no longer engaged. In the below photo I demonstrate the upright, hands-free position necessary for engaging the core muscles and developing core strength. A bonus for figure skaters is that it should be easy to achieve the position due to their keen sense of balance, making this an ideal exercise for them.
However, one does not need to be a figure skater to achieve the hands-free position. It can be accomplished relatively easily by following a few basic tips. First and foremost, it is key that the hips, waist, torso, neck, and head sit stacked one on top of the other, creating a straight, vertical line. One tip to maintaining a vertical line is to keep the head and chin up at all times. I find that gazing slightly upward helps keep my head and chin upright, as I demonstrate below.
Another tip for maintaining proper position is to avoid the temptation to look at the screen on the elliptical machine, as doing so causes the head and chin to drop down, which disturbs the vertical line and throws off the position. If a little media is needed to keep motivated throughout the workout, try focusing on the music being played in the gym instead. Perhaps one of the best tips of all for maintaining proper position is to be mindful and intentional throughout the workout by actively thinking about tightening and engaging the core muscles. Doing so allows one to check and correct errors as they occur, ultimately resulting in a more focused and productive workout.
My exercise on the elliptical allowed for a seamless transition when I returned to the ice. After having been off the ice for three months, I was concerned that my posture would be weak, that I would lean forward too much when I skated. I was pleasantly surprised to discover that the opposite was true. My exercise on the elliptical not only helped maintain the proper core strength from which proper posture on the ice follows, it helped improve it. I discovered this immediately when I began stroking around the ice. I was able to naturally find and maintain a straight, vertical line from my hips to the top of my head with my head and chin held up, allowing me to generate greater power and stability with each stroke. This strong, upright posture was evident when I practiced three-turns as well, helping me to better control and hold the exit edge. I also felt an improvement when I started spinning. On my scratch and sit spins it was easier to center the spins due to the strong, upright posture. It was as if the body was in one distinct piece as opposed to a bunch of disparate elements. Stronger core strength also allowed me to spin a little faster because my body was tighter and more upright, allowing the rotation around the axis to occur more quickly. And on the camel spin, I was able to keep my head and chin up more consistently upon entering the spin, which is key to the spin happening in the first place. A common mistake on the camel spin is to drop the head upon entry, which makes it impossible to start the spin; the spin is over before it begins.
Now I will discuss how swimming is beneficial for MCL tear recovery. The buoyancy of water reduces the effects of gravity, making the body much lighter. This, combined with the fact that there is no pounding motion against a hard surface, allows for little to no stress on the knees. Now, certain swimming strokes are better for the torn MCL than others. For example, thecrawl stroke, also known as freestyle, is ideal because the kick is a simple up and down motion originating in the hip joints. It is possible that the knees will bend a little bit, but because of the up and down motion the MCL is not engaged, making the crawl’s kick possible while injured. It is also possible to swim with a kick board and do the crawl’s kick by itself. This is what I did as it was easier to perform the kick accurately without engaging the arms and monitor any pain to the MCL. By contrast, strokes that engage the MCL, for example, those with the frog kick such as the breast stroke, should be avoided.
I soon discovered that the pool’s shallow end offered an ideal space for practicing figure skating jumps off-ice. The water’s buoyancy creates a cushion when one falls, unlike the hard and unforgiving surface of the ice. This safety net bred a confidence that allowed me to attempt, explore, and achieve the proper in-air jump position that has been more difficult to attain on the ice, where fear often gets in the way. I was reminded how the position of the core, shoulders, head, neck, and arms is supposed to feel when the body leaves the ice, allowing me to develop muscle memory. The goal now is to transfer the muscle memory developed in the pool to the ice. Please note I began practicing jumps in the water over a month into my recovery, after my MCL was well into the healing process. I wouldn’t have been able to do this exercise immediately after the injury. Also, when I practiced the jumps I was already in the water, starting from a standing position in the middle of the shallow end of the pool itself, far away from the wall of the pool.DO NOT jump into the pool from the outside!
The below photos demonstrate the improper jump position that skaters often cave to out of fear, and the proper jump position that we should aspire to and I was able to practice and experience in the pool.
For some reason, although the position on the left is incorrect and thus more dangerous, instinct tricks us into believing that curling the upper body into a pseudo fetal position is safer, with the shoulders rising up toward the ears and the head dropping down toward the chest. By contrast, the photo on the right demonstrates proper jump position, with the entire body in a straight, vertical line. The shoulders are pressed down and the head, neck and chin are held upright, pointing upward and away from the shoulders. This position results in the body soaring straight up when it leaves the ice, resulting in a more successful jump and less risk of falling. I was able to achieve this position over and over in the pool because I was unafraid of falling. It was a liberating feeling. Unfortunately, so far I have been unable to replicate the position on the ice (I’ve only skated seven times since my MCL tear and have some fear around certain jumps). But, now that off-ice pool practice has reignited my muscle memory of proper jump position, in time I will get there once again.
I’ll end this post by sharing how I tore my MCL. Ironically, my injury did not occur on the ice, but when I was riding my gravel bike. I had been going on two 90-minute bike rides per week as part of my off-ice training routine, as cycling is easy on the body’s joints and provides a great aerobic workout. The injury occurred when I fell off my bike riding downhill through a series of switchbacks on a paved path. I ride through these switchbacks every time I ride my bike, so was surprised that I fell there. My bike must have slid on sand or scree. It was as if the bike just slid out from under me to the right, almost in slow motion. The fall caused my left knee to turn inward, with the bike then dragging my leg and knee – which were bent in a ninety-degree angle – across the pavement. Following the injury I underwent X-rays and an MRI, after which it was discovered that my MCL was torn most of the way through. My orthopedist did not recommend surgery, saying that the MCL heals the easiest of all the knee’s ligaments, in particular if you are in good health and dedicated to regularly performing the recommended recovery exercises. My orthopedist predicted that I would be back on the ice in three months. When I initially heard this I was in disbelief given the pain I was in, but in three month’s time I was back on the ice, just as she predicted.
Thank you to my husband Jaroslav and friend Carol for taking the photos of me on the elliptical and ice, respectively.
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Two of the dancers in the Taconeando tango show. I love how it is almost possible to feel their movement in this photo. I took the photo from my table next to the stage.
A trip to Buenos Aires is not complete without attending a tango show. The city offers a plethora of options to experience this Argentine tradition, ranging from the small, unassuming, and local to the large, pretentious, and touristy. When we were in “BA,” as locals lovingly refer to their city, we were fortunate to attend the Taconeando tango show. A friend who had lived in BA recommended it to us, referring to it as a hidden gem popular with the locals. Our friend added that while it would be unlikely to find Taconeando on a top ten list, that is in fact part of its charm.
Taconeando is located in the historic barrio San Telmo, the oldest of BA’s forty-eight neighborhoods. Taconeando puts on its show in an intimate theatre with space for just 200 guests. Due to the theatre’s small size, there isn’t a bad seat in the house. Two to three rows of individual tables surround a horseshoe-shaped stage. My husband and I and our two friends were lucky enough to sit at a table for four right next to the stage. And when I say right next to, I am not mincing words! One side of our table was pressed up against the stage. We were so close to the action that we could smell the perfume, cologne, and sweat of the dancers and feel the breeze they created as they whizzed past us. We could have literally reached out and touched them. This is perhaps the greatest highlight of the Taconeando tango show. Due to the intimate nature of the theatre, guests feel as if they are a part of the show itself and not simply just watching it.
View of the action from our table. We were seated so close that we could see the elegant muscular definition in the dancer’s back, no doubt the result of years spent dancing the tango. Her strong, upright posture was stunning.View of the theatre before the show commenced. The theatre’s walls are adorned with photos of tango stars. My husband can be seen in the foreground from behind in the blue shirt at our four-top table next to the stage.
We enjoyed having our own table, too, another highlight of Taconeando’s small and intimate setting. By contrast, at large and touristy tango shows guests are often seated at long tables with other guests they do not know, which can be a bit awkward. At Taconeando, it is possible to take in the experience with just your friends and family.
Another feature that sets the Taconeando show apart is its simplicity, which I believe makes it more authentic. Just three couples danced to music provided by a quartet and tango singer. Unlike some of the larger tango shows the stage décor and musical accompaniment were not garish and overbearing, which drew the audience’s attention to the dancers. Also adding to Taconeando’s simplicity vibe was that some of the dancers arrived at the theatre the same time and through the same door as we did. Once the show began, we realized we had seen a couple of the dancers forty-five minutes earlier in their street clothes. This gave the show a sort of local authenticity and touch, as if the dancers were from the neighborhood and had simply walked in from the street.
The quartet as they began playing for the evening’s performance. They maintained an unassuming presence throughout the show, keeping the focus on the dancers. The stage décor was simple with just a Taconeando sign.
The show began with the tango singer welcoming us and paying homage to the late Carlos Gardel, who is widely considered the greatest tango singer of all time.
The tango singer welcoming us to the show.Collage of five photos of Carlos Gardel, to whom the tango singer directed our attention at the beginning of the show. An intimate two-top table can also be seen, one of the draws of the Taconeando experience. Guests do not have to make awkward conversation with people they do not know and will never see again!
Three different couples performed throughout the show and underwent at least a couple costume changes each. I’m not an expert on the tango, but I believe some of the musical pieces they performed to were common tango pieces. Some of the locals in the audience reacted to the pieces as if they were familiar with them. And given my figure skating background, I was able to appreciate a little about their presentation and form as they danced. For example, their elegant posture consisting of shoulders pressed down and shoulder blades pressed together, as well as maintaining strong core strength. There was no breaking at the waist. The upper body was beautifully upright, creating an elegant line from the waist through the top of the head, with the feet, legs, and hips doing all of the work. This allowed for consistent flow throughout the dance.
This couple was my favorite of all the dancers. Their presentation and form were breathtaking. They are also pictured above at the very top of the post and in the photo with the red dress. They wore three different costumes throughout the show. Of course it wouldn’t be the Argentine tango without striking a provocative pose at some point! In learning about the tango, I found that these close embraces are more characteristic of the Argentine tango. In fact, at one point in history in the early twentieth century, the Argentine tango was considered controversial due to such embraces.The three couples striking an identical pose at the end of the show.
After the show ended, the six dancers each selected a member of the audience for one final dance. My husband Jaroslav was one of the audience members pulled up onto the stage.
My husband dancing with one of the show’s performers after the show ended.
And when the show ended, the night was still young by Argentine standards. While a pre-show dinner was an option at Taconeando, we decided to forgo dinner at the show and instead extend our evening by indulging in the Argentine midnight steak tradition at one of the happening restaurants in BA’s fashionable Palermo neighborhood. And that is a subject for another blog post!
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Now I really am jealous! As close as I’ve been is flamenco in Spain but I’d love to go to South America.
Dalmatian Dining Traditions: The After-Dinner Stroll
The stroll, or “šetnja” in Croatian, is a beloved pastime in Croatia’s coastal Dalmatia region. In this post, I explain why the šetnja is so popular in Dalmatia. Then, I explore the tradition specific to the after-dinner hours, set against the backdrop of my family’s travels on the Dalmatian island of Vis.
Image featured above: My husband Jaroslav and I taking a stroll on the Dalmatian island of Brač.
The šetnja (pronounced sheht-nee-yuh in English) is an essential part of daily life in Dalmatia for a variety of reasons. The region’s Mediterranean climate is mild and dry, making life outdoors possible all year long. The stunning location of the region, situated along the coast of the Adriatic Sea with the Dinaric Alps mountain range rising up to dramatic heights in the background, permits for amazing views perfect for strolling. Perhaps most importantly, due to the high population density and cost of living in most coastal cities and towns – there simply isn’t much building space between the sea and the mountains – people tend to live in smaller and restricted spaces, leading them to venture out beyond the confines of their homes. In fact, when I think about living spaces in the Dalmatia region, I see the town as the living room and the actual physical dwelling itself more for sleeping and storing possessions.
A cherished family photo of my baby husband and his father out for a stroll along the harbor in the Dalmatian town of Makarska, where my husband was born and raised. It was taken in 1973 on a beautiful spring day perfect for being outdoors. In the background the town of Makarska is a narrow sliver nestled between the Adriatic Sea and Biokovo mountain, which rises up dramatically from sea level to an altitude of 5,781 feet.
The above photos demonstrate the smaller living spaces characteristic of many Dalmatian homes, leading residents to find balance by partaking in outdoor activities such as strolling. Clockwise, from left to right: 1) The Makarska apartment building where my husband and his sister grew up and where his sister now lives with her family. 2) The living room of the Makarska apartment, which is just 650 square feet and has two tiny bedrooms, one bathroom, a kitchen, a living room, and a balcony. Bedding can be seen folded up on the sofa, where Jaroslav and I sleep when we visit. Somehow we make it work, even with four adults and two children sharing the small space. Spending time outdoors each day helps us all maintain our sanity in tight quarters! 3) The stunning view from the balcony of the apartment, at sunset and just before we left for our after-dinner stroll. The Adriatic Sea and the islands of Brač and Hvar can be seen in the distance. The expansive view adds depth and dimension to the small space (and beckons us to go on a stroll!). 4) My husband and our niece putting a puzzle together in the living room during the heat of a summer afternoon, when we tend to remain indoors if we don’t go to the beach. In the summer the heat of the day makes a stroll in the after-dinner hours all the more essential and special, as the temperature has finally dropped just enough to venture outdoors.
The šetnja tradition follows us when we travel to the island of Vis, where it is a cherished part of our evening dining ritual. When we’re on Vis we stay in Komiža, a picturesque town composed of quaint alleys and pedestrian-only streets, built centuries before the automobile and nestled along a horseshoe-shaped harbor leading out into the Adriatic Sea. The pedestrian-friendly nature of Komiža ensures that all can take part in the beloved Dalmatian dining tradition of the after-dinner stroll.
The above three photos capture the stroll-inducing nature of Komiža. Clockwise from left: 1) Ribarska Ulica, or “Fisherman’s Street” in English, the main pedestrian thoroughfare through the town. 2) Gusarica Beach, where Ribarska Ulica begins. 3) The busy pedestrian intersection where Ribarska Ulica meets Komiža’s “riva,” the Dalmatian word for a walkway along a harbor front. The intersection is full of people out and about, enjoying the evening.
The full expanse of Komiža’s riva can be seen in the photo below. The riva is a quintessential part of the built environment in Dalmatian towns. In fact, I can’t think of a single town in the region without one. It’s as if the riva was devised with the premise that residents would spend lots of time outdoors, helping solidify the stroll as an essential part of life in the region. A popular strolling route in Komiža is from the start of Ribarska Ulica by Gusarica Beach to the end of the riva just beyond the Venetian fortress, which can be seen at the far right in the photo below. The stroll takes around thirty minutes at a leisurely pace. But of course there are many beautiful views, delightful little shops, and inviting cafés to distract you along the way!
The above photo on the left (Jaroslav’s sister, me, and Jaroslav) was taken after we finished dinner at Pizza&PastaFabrika, before setting out on our after-dinner stroll. Pizza&PastaFabrika is located next to perhaps one of the greatest architectural wonders of an after dinner stroll in Komiža, the Venetian fortress (above on the right). The fortress takes on a completely new aura at night. Its karst limestone façade is bathed in light, creating a stark contrast to the night sky. The contrast gives the fortress a more imposing presence than during the daylight hours.
Perhaps the greatest highlight of an after-dinner stroll is the opportunity to get to know family better. This is of particular importance to us because we only see our family in Croatia once per year. The above two photos are of Jaroslav and me getting to know our three-and-a-half-year-old nephew. The three of us can be seen from behind in the photo on the left, strolling past the Venetian fortress. In the photo on the right, Jaroslav and our nephew are making their way just beyond the fortress onto the pier, where nautical tourists dock their sailboats and yachts for the night. On this particular night, our nephew was expounding on how he dislikes it when his father leaves him each day to go to work. It was adorable and such a happy memory!
Part of the thrill of the after-dinner stroll is that you can never really predict what you might encounter. On the above evening, we came across a Komiža resident walking his donkey in the street just behind the riva. Our niece had a lot of fun petting the donkey. The donkey is perhaps the most common pack animal in Dalmatia. It is often featured on the labels of wines from Vinarija Dingač, a popular winery in the region.
An after-dinner stroll in Komiža is not complete without taking in the nautical ambiance of the area. Above, Jaroslav and I are doing just that on the riva. Below are sailboats anchored in Komiža’s harbor at sunset.
And below are the sailboats anchored in the harbor after dark, with only the tiny lights at the top of their masts visible. Sailboats not anchored at a dock are required to have a light at the top of their masts so their location is visible in the darkness. It’s a romantic sight, all the little lights bobbing on the sea against the backdrop of a dark and starry night.
A goal of all of our after-dinner strolls is dessert. Ahem, may I introduce you to THE CREPE LADY! as our family affectionately refers to her. The crepe lady’s cute little crepe stand is located on the riva in the town of Vis and is open each summer night (she’s closed during the day) into the wee hours. It is a tradition of ours when we stay in Komiža to make the short drive over the hill to the town of Vis at least once to devour her delicious crepes. We then stroll along the Vis riva, crepes in hand.
Above is the crepe lady in action. We still haven’t figured out what her business is called, but it is virtually impossible to misunderstand its purpose. Her stand has the word “crepes” spelled out in multiple languages. The crepe lady greets her customers with her characteristic steely gaze, barely cracking a smile. Some tourists may find that off-putting, but I appreciate her honest and real demeanor. For I come from the USA where we are taught to smile no matter how we are feeling, even when we are feeling down. I find the pressure to put on a happy face emotionally draining, so find the honest demeanor of the crepe lady – and in fact the Croatian people more generally – a refreshing relief.
Some nights Jaroslav and I extend our after-dinner stroll by adding drinks to the mix, even after dessert. Below is a photo of the delicious Aperol Spritz I ordered one night at Karoca Gre, a happening café along the riva in Komiža. I like that it was served with a compostable straw, keeping the natural beauty of the island in mind.
I will end this post with a shout-out to our four-legged friends, who appear to enjoy strolling in Komiža as much as humans do! Below two photos: a couple kitties hanging out in an alley off Ribarska Ulica, and kitty paw prints in a stretch of pavement on Ribarska Ulica.
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10 thoughts on “Dalmatian Dining Traditions: The After-Dinner Stroll”
A tradition I particularly love about southern European living. The Riva in Split is one of my favourite places to be of an evening. Viz is high on my list of places to visit…
What a lovely read, Carolyn! Do you speak Croatian, or do you communicate with your family in English? I was already in my mid 50s when Dad was reunited with his Polish family. I did start to learn the language but we had just acquired a holiday home in Portugal and I found the conflict between the two quite difficult. Although I’m looking forward to seeing them tomorrow I do wish I could speak Polish. I have a string of words but putting them together is not so easy.
Thank you so much for your kind comment! All of the gen-Xers (and younger) in my family over there speak English so I speak English with them. I have tried to learn the language (it’s harder to do that as an adult!) and lived over there at one point for 6 months, so have had an opportunity to develop a basic grasp, although I am probably flattering myself! My late in-laws did not speak English so I did speak Croatian with them. Have a great time with your Polish family! I can relate to the challenge of putting words together. I have a good vocabulary, but then the words come out in the wrong order…
And when I need a Polish word, invariably a Portuguese one comes to the fore, and vice versa…
Yes! 🤣 The same thing happens to me with Croatian and English. I call it Cro-Glish.
I speak French so sometimes French words pop in there when I speak Croatian as well. It’s funny how when the brain is unaware of one word in a foreign language it reverts to the same word in a foreign language that it does know!
Some of my Polish did come back while we were talking today, but not much. By the time they go home I might be able to string 2 sentences together!
Island of Vis, Croatia Dining: Luka Nižetić’s Restaurants
While konobas* offer a great opportunity to experience Dalmatian culture through cuisine, sometimes one needs a break from them. In fact, konobas are so ubiquitous throughout Croatia’s Dalmatia region that when I travel there I often find myself wondering, is there anything else??? In the town of Komiža on the island of Vis, there is!
My family and I discovered a welcome change of pace from the traditional konoba in the two Komiža restaurants owned and operated by Croatian singer Luka Nižetić. Nižetić is a native of the coastal city of Split, the capital of the Dalmatia region, so it is perhaps not surprising that he would choose an idyllic Dalmatian locale for his two restaurants, Fabrika Bistro and Pizza&Pasta Fabrika. He is also the owner of the boutique Fabrika, located on Komiža’s Ribarska Ulica and dedicated to promoting and selling the creations of Croatian designers.
Nižetić’s two restaurants, Fabrika Bistro and Pizza&Pasta Fabrika (the latter name he recently changed from Pizza&Bar Hum), are located at the far end of Komiža’s “riva” – the Dalmatian word for a walkway along a harbor front – next to the Venetian fortress.
View of the riva. The Venetian fortress is on the far right.Close-up of the fortress. Nižetić’s Pizza&Pasta is located under the palm trees lit up in purple and green. Bistro is located next door to Pizza&Pasta.
We enjoyed our dining experience at Fabrika Bistro, where Nižetić departs from the traditional Dalmatian morning routine by serving breakfast. It is often difficult in Dalmatia to find dining establishments where breakfast is served because Dalmatians tend to eat breakfast at home and then head to a café for their morning coffee. At Bistro, it is possible to combine breakfast and the coffee ritual, and we did so, happily!
Breakfast at Bistro, with its bright and cheery handmade décor. According to Nižetić’s website, he built some of the décor himself. Pictured are my husband and sister- and brother-in-law.
I ordered fresh squeezed orange juice and scrambled eggs atop avocado toast accompanied with a little pico de gallo. While breakfast felt a bit more SoCal than Dalmatian, it was delicious! We appreciate that Nižetić has provided another option for the start of the day. And bonus, the orange juice was served with a compostable straw. Kudos to Nižetić for keeping the island’s natural beauty and environment in mind!
Lunch and dinner at Bistro are a continued departure from traditional Dalmatian norms and include a variety of creatively-concocted gourmet hamburgers (think mushroom and blue cheese with baked potato wedges), cheese sandwiches, and salads, among other items. We haven’t yet dined at Bistro for lunch or dinner but look forward to doing so on a future trip!
We’ve dined at Nižetić’s Pizza&Pasta Fabrika on several occasions, both at lunch and at dinner. Given its convenient hours of operation from the late-morning to the late-evening hours, Pizza&Pasta is a great place for a casual afternoon lunch or a dressier dinner.
The above two photos are of us at Pizza&Pasta for dinner. In the photo on the left, the buildings lining the opposite side of Komiža’s horseshoe-shaped harbor are visible in the background, as well as a small hill composed of the karst limestone characteristic of Dalmatia’s hills and mountains. On the right is a selfie… as the unofficial photographer, journalist, and archivist of our trips, I’m hardly in any of the photos! On this particular evening (and not unlike many evenings), Nižetić was in situ and at times delivering the food to the tables himself. It is evident that his restaurants are a labor of love for him, a special touch that adds to the dining experience.
Above are a couple of the pizzas we ordered at Pizza&Pasta, inspired by the pizza of Italy’s Naples but expanded upon with unusual and creative collections of toppings. The pizza in the foreground is topped with tuna along with olives, purple onions, grape tomatoes, basil, and mozzarella cheese. The pizza to the right is topped with sausage, olives, jalapeno peppers, and mozzarella cheese. Nižetić recently updated the menu to include a tuna carpaccio pizza, which I look forward to trying on our next trip.
The above photo is of us dining at Pizza&Pasta in the afternoon, after having spent an extended morning at the beach. The restaurant was empty because most people were, in fact, still at the beach! One dining cultural norm I would like to point out in the photo is that everyone, including my niece who was eight at the time, is eating their pizza with a knife and fork, and not with their hands as Americans tend to do. It is common in Dalmatia and the rest of Europe to consume all food with a knife and fork and to deliver the food to the mouth with the fork turned downward, using the knife to cut the food and push it onto the back of the fork. This is in dignified contrast to the seemingly unrefined American way where the fork is often used to scoop up the food, and, even more horrifying, to cut the food itself!
I decided to break from my tradition of ordering one of Pizza&Pasta’s more unusual pizza options and opted for the simple and traditional Napoletana (Naples-style) Pizza Margherita, topped with fresh mozzarella and San Marzano tomatoes. Sometimes less is more, especially when travelling and trying a lot of new things.
Pizza&Pasta‘s Pizza Margherita
My husband and I shared a glass of rakija, a traditional Croatian aperitif (pre-dinner drink) made from distilled and fermented fruits. The one we ordered was made from plums, one of the most commonly used fruits in rakija. While we are not avid drinkers of hard liquor, we ordered the drink in honor of my late father-in-law, who was a firm believer in an aperitif before every special dinner. His liquor cabinet was always stocked with a variety of aperitifs, most of which were homemade and gifted to him by friends.
A glass (or rather, the end of a glass!) of plum rakija.
My husband and I also enjoy the bar at Pizza&Pasta for drinks in the evening when we engage in the beloved Dalmatian after-dinner tradition of the “šetnja,” or “stroll” in English. Stay tuned for my next blog post in which I explore the šetnja in detail. The below photos were taken at one of the high top tables in Pizza&Pasta’s bar area. My husband is enjoying a Karlovačko lager from the brewery in the town of Karlovac in north-central Croatia. I am enjoying a glass of rosé. I gravitate toward chilled wines on hot Dalmatian summer nights!
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2 thoughts on “Island of Vis, Croatia Dining: Luka Nižetić’s Restaurants”
Island of Vis, Croatia Dining: Konoba Barba and Konoba Dol
My next several travel blog posts are about dining experiences and traditions in Croatia’s Dalmatia region. The posts are written through the lens of my family’s travels on the Dalmatian island of Vis, primarily in the town of Komiža but elsewhere on the island as well.
Image featured above: The beckoning waterfront terrace at Konoba Barba, a restaurant serving traditional Dalmatian cuisine in Komiža. The restaurant is located at the end of a quaint alleyway off the pedestrian Ribarska Ulica, or “Fisherman’s Street.” The Adriatic Sea and island of Biševo are visible in the background.
My husband is a Dalmatia native, born and raised in the coastal town of Makarska. It is a tradition of ours to retreat with family to the island of Vis for relaxation and beach time.
My husband and I on the harbor front in Komiža. We are at the start of our evening dining ritual, which consists of a leisurely stroll to take in the beauty of early evening, dinner, and then an after-dinner stroll with traditions all of its own.
After spending the day swimming in the refreshing waters of the Adriatic Sea and basking in the warmth of the Mediterranean sun, we work up a ravenous appetite. There is something about the combination of physical activity and time spent in the sun that wears us out physically and sends us on a quest for a satisfying meal.
Stiniva Beach from above. The beach experience at Stiniva is an example of just how easy it is to work up an appetite during a beach day on Vis. Accessing Stiniva Beach from land requires a hike down a steep cliff face. After making our way down the cliff, we spend the day swimming and basking in the sun. Finally, we hike back up the cliff. After all of this physical activity we are more than ready to gorge ourselves on traditional Dalmatian cuisine.
The Dalmatian “konoba” is just the right kind of place to satiate hunger on those active beach days. Many of our most memorable dining experiences on the island of Vis have taken place in konobas.
So what is a konoba? According to my Dalmatian husband, there is no direct translation in English. In a historical sense, a konoba was the room in a traditional Dalmatian house – a structure constructed of karst limestone – where food was prepared and stored. So sort of a kitchen, and sort of a cellar. The konoba was located on the ground floor of the house, if not in the basement, and had no windows. The stone construction coupled with a lack of windows permitted the maintenance of proper temperature to keep food from spoiling. The konoba as an integral part of a Dalmatian dwelling endured until the use of electricity and modern refrigeration became widespread. The arrival of tourism as a major industry in Dalmatia also added to the traditional konoba’s demise. Locals began renovating their homes to accommodate tourists as a way to earn extra income during the summer months.
The above two photos are from the bottom floor of the renovated stone house where we prefer to stay in Komiža. The kitchen and bedroom are pictured. The bottom floor must have once been the konoba. It has walls of stone and while it has three rooms and a bathroom, there is just one tiny window, located in the kitchen and likely added when the house was renovated. We prefer the bottom floor to the top because, like the konoba it once was, it is cooler, darker, and quieter.
Nowadays, konoba refers to a traditional Dalmatian restaurant serving grilled meats and fish. Because of the variety of meats and fish prepared at these restaurants, it is possible to dine in konobas day after day and not order the same dish twice. Below I detail our experiences at two different konobas: Konoba Dol, where we dined on meat, and Konoba Barba, where we dined on fish.
Lunch spread at Konoba Dol, the highlight of which is the mixed grill platter. The platter consists of five different meats, specifically, from left: pork sausages in casing; cevapi; chicken; pljeskavica; and pork chops. By the time I snapped this photo, we had already devoured about a third of the platter.
The above photo is of the spread from our meal at Konoba Dol, located in the picturesque countryside between the towns of Komiža and Vis. We dined at Dol after spending the day at Stiniva Beach. We were so hungry that we went to Dol directly from the beach in the late afternoon, without showering or changing out of our beach attire. This was not an issue because Dalmatian culture and identity are inextricably intertwined with the sea. We also arrived in advance of the evening hours, which are a bit dressier.
There is a lot to unpack in the photo of the spread at Dol with respect to Dalmatian cuisine. While the centerpiece is the meats, I will begin with the potatoes. Fried potatoes seasoned with just the right amount of Dalmatian sea salt are a common side dish throughout the region. There is something about the sea salt, harvested primarily in Northern Dalmatia on the island of Pag but also in the coastal towns of Nin and Ston, that complements the starchiness of the potato and brings out an exquisite and delectable taste, setting the potato apart from any I have ever tasted. Part of the delectability of the Dalmatian potato may be due to how it is grown and raised. Potato patches can be found all across Dalmatia in sinkholes that have formed in the mountainous countryside. Locals lovingly tend to these patches, cultivating tiny batches of potatoes that are then sold to fine restaurants in Western Europe. Thankfully, some remain in Dalmatia for local consumption.
Now, moving on to the meats. Dalmatians are unapologetic meat eaters and enjoy a diverse array of meat dishes. The mixed grill platter at Dol does a great job of capturing the variety of meats commonly consumed in the region. My most favorite meat dishes, and the ones I will highlight here, are čevapi and pljeskavica. It is important to acknowledge that these two specialties are beloved not just in Croatia’s Dalmatia region, but in most of the present-day countries that once made up the now non-existent country of Yugoslavia (Croatia, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Slovenia, Kosovo, North Macedonia, Montenegro, and Serbia). Čevapi are composed of a minced mixture of two meats and shaped like a sausage, but without a casing. The meats used to make čevapi are beef, lamb, veal, or pork. The specific two-meat mixture selected depends not just on personal taste, but on region-specific traditions and beliefs as well. For example, in the Muslim part of the country of Bosnia and Herzegovina, beef and lamb are used as the consumption of pork is forbidden due to religious belief. However in Croatia, a Catholic country, pork is most often one of the two meats used. My favorite mixture, and the one served to us at Dol, consists of beef and pork. Pljeskavica is very similar to čevapi, made with the same minced meat mixture but shaped like a patty. Čevapi and pljeskavica are typically accompanied with the condiment ajvar, a bright-red eye-popping mixture of roasted red peppers and eggplant. Ajvar is salted and spiced in a variety of ways, and can range in temperature from mild to hot. It can be seen above nestled on the far left of the meat platter.
And I must not neglect to mention the side dish of grilled vegetables. We enjoyed grilled tomatoes, zucchini, green peppers, and eggplant. The vegetables were served drizzled with olive oil, one of the exports of the Dalmatia region.
Grove of olive trees near Komiža. My sister-in-law rarely needs to buy olive oil at the grocery store, as friends whose families produce olive oil for a living sell it to her at a reduced rate or give it to her for free.
Konoba Barba is conveniently located off Ribarska Ulica, the main pedestrian thoroughfare in the town of Komiža, which is composed of quaint alleyways and pedestrian-only streets. “Barba” is the Dalmatian word for “uncle.” It amazes me how a country with barely four million inhabitants can have so many different dialects and words for the same thing.
Above two photos: the charming entrance to Barba. And Ribarska Ulica in the shadow of late afternoon.
The setting at Barba is idyllic and dreamy, on a terrace perched above the Adriatic Sea with a stunning view of Komiža’s “riva” (the Dalmatian word for a walkway along a harbor front), harbor, and the island of Biševo. A large part of the experience at Barba is, in fact, to simply take in the ambiance. The photo at the beginning of this post captures the dreaminess of Barba’s waterfront setting.
Above is Barba’s terrace in the morning light, before it opened for the day. I snapped this photo on our way to our morning coffee. The captivating terrace was beckoning to us throughout our entire trip. We were thrilled to secure a reservation!
Above two photos: my husband and niece settling in at our table on Barba’s terrace. The restaurant is just beginning to fill up for the evening. And the view from our table of the riva, harbor, and mountain as the sun was setting. The white karst limestone of the mountain is taking on a beautiful pinkish-orange cast. We took our time at dinner that night, wanting to fully enjoy the sunset and the experience. Our food did not arrive until it was dark. Luckily we were in Dalmatia where, much like in the rest of Europe, dinner is viewed as an experience to savor and enjoy. The wait staff respect their patrons’ space and are not in a hurry to turn over the tables.
Now, there is no lack of restaurants with beautiful views throughout Croatia’s Dalmatia region, and some restaurants get away with serving lack-luster food knowing that their view will attract a consistent throng of customers. This is not the case at Barba, where the food is just as much an attraction as the view. While we indulged in meats at Konoba Dol, at Konoba Barba fish was center stage.
Tuna steak and a side of the Dalmatian specialty blitva.
My brother-in-law and I ordered the tuna steak. As is often the practice in fine restaurants throughout the Dalmatia region, Barba requested our seafood order when we made our reservation. Planning ahead allows the restaurant to ensure the freshness and quality of the fish and, by extension, the dining experience. I did depart a little from tradition by ordering red wine to go along with my tuna instead of white. Luckily, the wait staff was not bothered by this whatsoever. I have in the past when travelling in Europe had the wait staff dispute my order because I did not choose the preferred accompaniments and pairings to a dish. And go figure, the two true Dalmatians in our group, my husband and his sister, do not like seafood so ordered a mixed grill platter instead!
For my side item at Barba I chose the Dalmatian specialty blitva and potatoes, traditionally referred to simply as “blitva.” Blitva is often translated in English as Swiss chard. However, as my Dalmatian family and friends assure me, blitva is not Swiss chard, but rather a green leafy vegetable endemic to the Dalmatia region. The delectable dish is prepared by boiling the potatoes and sautéing the greens in a mixture of olive oil and garlic, and then combining the potatoes and the greens in the olive oil and garlic mixture. And of course, the blitva is seasoned with Dalmatian sea salt! Luckily at Barba the amount of sautéing and boiling was just right, so the greens and potatoes were neither too tough nor too mushy, and the greens retained their flavor.
And we mustn’t forget the kiddos! In this last part of the post, I discuss dining with children in Dalmatia (and the challenge associated with it!). As anyone who has travelled with small children knows, there is a direct correlation between the enjoyment of your trip and keeping the kids happy. My husband and I have experienced this firsthand on travels with our niece and nephew in tow. This reality is often most evident when dining on our trips. There is nothing more frustrating on a trip than securing a reservation at a restaurant we’ve been looking forward to dining at and then having the experience dampened by the kids being stubborn and fussy about the food. In my travels around Dalmatia I have found one kid-friendly dish that satisfies every time: green peppers stuffed with a mixture of ground beef and rice, served on bed of mashed potatoes and topped with gravy.
Above two photos: my brother-in-law struggling to convince his daughter, who was five at the time, to eat her dinner. And the dinner-rescuing kid-friendly dish, stuffed green peppers with potatoes and gravy. The spice level is mild to non-existent, with the only bite coming naturally from the green pepper. So no complaining about upset tummies! The consistency of all elements of the dish – the stuffing, the pepper, and the potatoes – is soft, smooth, and mushy, so no off-putting and unfamiliar textures. Simply put, the risk of dinner-destroying meltdowns and tantrums is minimal!
The kiddos keeping occupied during our morning coffee ritual. Sometimes a little screen time is a good thing!
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5 thoughts on “Island of Vis, Croatia Dining: Konoba Barba and Konoba Dol”
Fantastic read! Your vivid descriptions of Dalmatian dining and traditions on Vis made me feel like I was right there. I can’t wait to try the local dishes you mentioned, especially peka. Looking forward to part 2 and more insights into Croatian island culture!
Thank you so, so much for your most kind and amazing comment! Please check out my travel blog archives for additional posts on Croatian coastal and island culture. I’ve posted about other dining experiences on Vis, the Dalmatian dining tradition of the after dinner stroll, and boating around Vis. And of course stay tuned because there is more to come! Thanks again for your supportive comment.
Thanks for stopping by, Theresa! Konoba Barba was such a wonderful place, great food and alfresco dining surrounded by the sea, an experience Croatia has in spades!
OMG!!! How super cute!! You are lucky to have him visiting you (or your mom):-)
Indeed! I only wish the groundhog would make an appearance when I’m visiting. I haven’t yet seen it except for in photos!
Oh my!!!! 😍😍😍
The groundhog is definitely a cutie! I hope you’re staying warm in Finland… I just read your latest post!
Staying warm is easier said than done! 😆
I’m not sure I’ve even seen a groundhog before. What a beautiful creature! Happy Groundhog Day, Carolyn! xx
Thanks, Jo! It is indeed a beautiful creature. And it’s sad because some people call the exterminator when groundhogs show up in their yard. Thankfully, my parents have not! It’s so fun to watch for it to appear.
Because they mess up the lawn? What a shame xx
Yes, unfortunately! Their burrow tunnels can sometimes leave a mound behind.
Miserable folks!
Well captured! What a nice view.
Thank you for your comment! I especially appreciate it because you are such a great nature photographer.
Thank you so much, Carolyn.
That groundhog is very adorable! Love how it’s lounging on the bench. I couldn’t help but laugh at how Phil was right only 30% of the time and yet they keep going with these forecasts. I guess all you have to do is expect the opposite of what the groundhog predicts!
Agreed 🙂 And thank you so much! It does look very comfortable there.
The resident groundhog is so cute! Thanks for sharing the context about Groundhog Day.
Thank you so much for stopping by 🙂 And happy to provide the context! The post is so much more meaningful with it.
Groundhogs are such endearing creatures. You gotta love their plump, “rooly-poly” appearance. Are you watching and enjoying the Winter Olympics? I just watched French duo Laurence Fournier Beaudry and Guillaume Cizeron defeat three-time reigning world champions Madison Chock and Evan Bates to win Olympic gold. I was very much in awe watching all the aerial acrobatics, speed and how skaters maintain perfect balance while performing. Thanks for sharing, and have a good day 🙂 Aiva xx
Thank you, Aiva! Yes, I enjoyed watching the Winter Olympics and the figure skating events in particular. While some of the outcomes were unpredictable, all of the performances were breathtaking and the finishes well earned. It takes a special kind of courage to compete at that level, for sure. That is what makes the Olympics unique. Here’s to the next four years⛸️
I am glad to hear that you enjoyed watching the Winter Olympics. I loved it too because it is quite amazing to watch sports that rarely get mainstream coverage, such as biathlon, bobsled, skeleton, and curling. It also offers a unique aesthetic—snow-covered mountains, icy tracks, and breathtaking drone footage—that often feels more visually immersive than summer events. Take care xx
Agreed! 🙂⛸️❄️ Have a great week!
Oh my, it looks like a fat cat from the distance. What a cute animal
Yes it does🙂 Thanks for stopping by, Tanja!